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#1
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I'm sick of doing this - need foolproof steering wheel removal
The 280E AMG needed a new steering wheel, I wrestled with that for three days, using breaker bars and impacts but got absolutely nowhere. Frustrated, I took it to my mechanic who had it off in a few minutes with a breaker bar.
Now, I have a replacement AMG steering wheel for the r107 - can't break that one off either, dammit. Then, when done with that, I still have to take the wheel off the wagon so I can fix the loose turn stalk. I'M SICK TO DEATH OF FIGHTING THAT STUPID NUT. Is there any way that can guarantee getting that little bastard nut loose? I'm tired of wasting my time and don't want to retreat back to the mechanic two more times.
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- Brian 1989 500SEL Euro 1966 250SE Cabriolet 1958 BMW Isetta 600 |
#2
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I went to the local hardware store and bought about a three foot length of pipe, slid it over the socket, had someone hold the wheel and broke it loose. Hope this helps.
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99 ML320 94 SL600 92 SL500 95 E320 Cabriolet 87 560SEC 86 300SDL Grease Car 80 380SLC Euro 13 Fiat Abarth 02 Maserati Spyder Cambiocorsa 00 BMW Z3 90 Rolls Royce Silver Spur 80 Ferrari 308 GTSI 88 Jaguar XJS12 H&E Edition 99 Land Rover Discovery |
#3
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Get/rent a good impact wrench, set the compressor pressure as high as the wrench can handle...that usually does it.
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Chris 2007 E550 4Matic - 61,000 Km - Iridium Silver, black leather, Sport package, Premium 2 package 2007 GL450 4Matic - 62,000 Km - Obsidian Black Metallic, black leather, all options 1998 E430 - sold 1989 300E - 333,000 Km - sold 1977 280E - sold 1971 250 - retired "And a frign hat. They gave me a hat at the annual benefits meeting. I said. how does this benefit me. I dont have anything from the company.. So they gave me a hat." - TheDon |
#4
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Impacts won't work
Pure muscle is the only way.
The impact wrench isn't very effective when the object the fastener is attached to can move. In this case, the steering shaft isn't firmly fixed, and when the wrench "impacts", the shaft jumps a bit, taking most of the power out of the impact. I had the same issue when I needed to replace the turn signal switch on my '92 300SE. It has some sort of socket-headed bolt (torx or hex, I don't remember). I tried and tried and tried and almost ruined the bolt. Took it to Silvio's - the fellow that does all the wrenching I can't do. Ralf, the 6-6'' shop foreman got the right socket and a 2+ foot long breaker bar and muscled it right off. I could have done it myself as it turns out. I was scared I was going to damage the steering lock so I never tried very hard. He said they're practically impossible to damage. Having said this, if you snap your steering lock - don't come looking for me. I'll bet all you need is a long wrench, good angle on the fastener and a fair amount of upper body strength. You can substitute longer wrench for lesser strength. Get the arm of the wrench as close to the rim of the wheel as you can - short extension and/or deep well socket to limit the length of the extension. Grab the wrench at the pivot point with one hand, and at the end of the wrench with the other and PULLLLLL! (Or Puuuushhhh, depending on where the handle is...) |
#5
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I'd spray a good quality lube on there to loosen that puppy up!
Aerokroil is by far the best i've come across and does work wonders.
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1999 C280 |
#6
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Quote:
While the part can move, the impact puts enough force to apply enough to the threads to break the fastener loose. I never hold wheels when using an impact driver on them. I've never had to apply the brake or otherwise stop the wheel from turning. The same is true of a FWD hub nut that I broke free last weekend; nothing was holding the hub from turning. The transmission was in neutral and the brake was not engaged, but the nut came right off. That nut is on with a whole lot more torque than your steering wheel. |
#7
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..........so, he used the steering lock to provide countertorque..........I'm not confident that he's correct regarding "no damage".
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#8
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It helps to get another guy to hold the steering wheel to keep the pressure off the steering lock.
Usually it is not tight enough that the force of someone holding the wheel with counter pressure is futile unless whoever put it on tightened it up way too tight. |
#9
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Make sure you have a breaker bar and not a ratchet. Slide a pipe (extension) over the breaker bar if necessary. If that does not work ask your girl friend for help.
__________________
Earl ![]() 1993 190E 2.3 2000 Toyota 4x4 Tundra |
#10
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I use a large 1/2" drive breaker bar with the steering wheel locked.
I sometimes have to stand outside the drivers door to break them loose. Just a little advice, and I've seen new techs do this at the dealer. Do not push up on the breaker bar with the travel of the bar going toward the windshield when the bolt does break loose otherwise you will be replacing a windshield too. |
#11
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Sounds like I'm going to use a butane torch to heat up the Loc-Tite, then I'll go for the pipe over the breaker bar and socket. No girlfriend, but I can tell you my wife will not be assisting.
__________________
- Brian 1989 500SEL Euro 1966 250SE Cabriolet 1958 BMW Isetta 600 |
#12
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I wasn't going to use the steering lock as a tool.
__________________
- Brian 1989 500SEL Euro 1966 250SE Cabriolet 1958 BMW Isetta 600 |
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