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Need some pointers: Looking to buy a 93 300te 4matic
I have been looking around for a s124 wagon for a while now.
I dorve by the other day and saw a 93 300te 4matic. Ill be looking at it tomorrow am. I have a few questions, and need a few pointers. Does anyone know what engine it is supposed to have? How do I test the SLS if it has one? Do they all have it? Any 4matic specific tests? Where are common leak points? Any specific s124 rust spots? Wiring harness year? The car seems well maintained with an advertised 119k. It does have heated seats and grey leather interior. Original radio, etc... Paint is nice and glossy, but at some point it was backed in to something stationary and did some minor damage to the rear hatch, and r,r panel. Also broke out tail light. My guess is that it is a 500-1k repair if I dropped it off to the dealer to get repaired. Any info is welcomed and appreciated. Thing is, he's asking $3500. At that price, it should be nearly perfect. What would be a fair price?
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Eugene 10 E63 AMG 93 300te 4matic 07 BMW X3 14 Ford F-150 Fx2 |
#2
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According to this page
Mercedes Benz EPC 124.290 Chassis Information | Everything Benz The engine is a M103.985 Automatic transmissions 722.342 or 722.346 (probably not this one as it was Europe issue) Here the 4Matics are cheaper than the other equivalent models because they are expensive to fix. All the W124s I've seen rot like any other Mercedes I've seen with rust issues in four main places => behind the front wheels and in front of the rear. I've noticed that cars with rust behind the rear wheels and in front of the front wheels are usually more gone than the others with just rust in the four corners of the floor pan area. (Massive generalisation I know - but we like sweeping statements here)
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1992 W201 190E 1.8 171,000 km - Daily driver 1981 W123 300D ~ 100,000 miles / 160,000 km - project car stripped to the bone 1965 Land Rover Series 2a Station Wagon CIS recovery therapy! 1961 Volvo PV544 Bare metal rat rod-ish thing I'm here to chat about cars and to help others - I'm not here "to always be right" like an internet warrior ![]() Don't leave that there - I'll take it to bits! |
#3
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I popped the jack plugs and everything seemed ok. The w124 is notorious for rotting there. Ill check the wheel wells when I see it tomorrow.
If it has anything more than I light surface rust on the underbody, Ill be passing on the whole bit.
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Eugene 10 E63 AMG 93 300te 4matic 07 BMW X3 14 Ford F-150 Fx2 |
#4
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If the 4-matic light comes on and then goes off when the engine is started then the 4-matic system should be functional. Test it by finding a gravel patch and spinning the rear wheels taking off. It should illuminate the triangle warning in the speedo and immediately lock the t-case and pull off without further spinning. Under the hood check the fluid level in the hydraulic reservoir on the drivers fender. It should be at least 2/3s full, pull the dipstick and check its level.
Check the SLS by sitting on the rear with a (portly) friend while idling. You should feel it slowly pump up as it levels out your weight. Also check that the rear hatch holds itself up. The struts are buried and a real PITA to replace. Additionally check the function of the rear wiper motor. A sluggish motor is cause for concern as they aren't cheap or easy to replace. Check that the rear washer works as well. They break the hose in the right tailgate hinge and that isn't an easy fix either. Lastly make sure the tailgate power latches. You don't slam them, just set the tailgate down on the latch and it should pull down and latch automaticly. If it has the factory sound system.... they tend to crap out due to water leaking in around the antenna seal. Open the cover in the right rear and inspect the audio components in that vicinity for corrosion or water ingress damage.
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![]() 90 300TE 4-M Turbo 103, T3/T04E 50 trim T04B cover .60 AR Stage 3 turbine .63 AR A2W I/C, 40 LB/HR MS2E, 60-2 Direct Coil Control 3" Exh, AEM W/B O2 Underdrive Alt. and P/S Pulleys, Vented Rear Discs, .034 Booster. 3.07 diffs 1st Gear Start 90 300CE 104.980 Milled & ported head, 10.3:1 compression 197° intake cam w/20° advancer Tuned CIS ECU 4° ignition advance PCS TCM2000, built 722.6 600W networked suction fan Sportline sway bars V8 rear subframe, Quaife ATB 3.06 diff |
#5
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Excellent info, thanks. Any idea on value of these things?
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Eugene 10 E63 AMG 93 300te 4matic 07 BMW X3 14 Ford F-150 Fx2 |
#6
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Value
Not sure I can help on the value, but I think you've got a good negotiating point on the damage to the rear you mentioned. You might even take it to a body shop and get a written estimate for further leverage. Good luck.
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#7
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i think most people will tell you not to get a 4matic. I lost a 100 deposit on one last year... best 100 i ever in spent.
i wish i did complete due diligence before i put down the deposit... but i wanted a wagon so badly at the time... now i am looking at another without the 4matic.... we will see how it goes.
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1989 300ce 129k ( facelifted front,updated tail lights, lowered suspension,bilstein sports, lorinser front spoiler, MOMO steering wheel, remus exhaust,stainless steel brake lines). (Gone) 1997 s320 154k (what a ride). Sold with 179k miles. Replaced with Hyundai Equus 1994 e320 Cabriolet 108k ![]() 1972 280se 4.5 153k Owned for 12 yrs, sorry I sold it [/SIGPIC] |
#8
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I think there is a general fear of 4 matics for no real good reason. From my limited research, it doesn't seem like they are especially failure prone. The only drawback to me is that when it fails, the rebuild will cost twice as much.
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Eugene 10 E63 AMG 93 300te 4matic 07 BMW X3 14 Ford F-150 Fx2 |
#9
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My guess is that that's probably quite true - it is a bit like the fear of rebuilding an automatic transmission: once you've done it you're left wondering what all the fuss is about. Understanding how something works is all that is needed - if you're a pioneer, however, you usually take longer fixing stuff than the people who follow!
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1992 W201 190E 1.8 171,000 km - Daily driver 1981 W123 300D ~ 100,000 miles / 160,000 km - project car stripped to the bone 1965 Land Rover Series 2a Station Wagon CIS recovery therapy! 1961 Volvo PV544 Bare metal rat rod-ish thing I'm here to chat about cars and to help others - I'm not here "to always be right" like an internet warrior ![]() Don't leave that there - I'll take it to bits! |
#10
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@stretch: I must agree with you on that but I do admit, watching the thread where you took apart the 5 speed gearbox was pretty intense.
I'm going to look at it in about 30 minutes. Ill report back when I can
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Eugene 10 E63 AMG 93 300te 4matic 07 BMW X3 14 Ford F-150 Fx2 |
#11
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So i looked at the 300te and im a bit dissapointed.
The rear damage is a bit more that I anticipated. I went to open the rear interior side panel and it was basically jammed. THe rear pillar was definitely pushed in an 1/8 of an inch give or take. It really sucks because that is exactly the type of wagon I am looking for. The rear wiper worked, but could not get washer fluid (didnt check bottle). Self closing rear latch inop Interior is nice less one small burn hole on the back passenger seat. shift linkage needs bushings. Car was alreay @ operating temp when I got there (can we say red flag?) I say so because this car is supposedly never driven and has not moved in the 3 days I have been looking at it. I was unable to test the 4matic, but all the lights turned on when I started the car. There was a hydraulic bottle on the fender, does that mean it has SLS? What would you guys offer on a car like this? Other than the above, the car is in pretty good shape. It was never meticulously maintained, but not beat to death by any stretch. Err, also, very little/ no service history.
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Eugene 10 E63 AMG 93 300te 4matic 07 BMW X3 14 Ford F-150 Fx2 |
#12
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I'd keep looking - but there's probably more of a choice here - are W124 wagons hard to find?
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1992 W201 190E 1.8 171,000 km - Daily driver 1981 W123 300D ~ 100,000 miles / 160,000 km - project car stripped to the bone 1965 Land Rover Series 2a Station Wagon CIS recovery therapy! 1961 Volvo PV544 Bare metal rat rod-ish thing I'm here to chat about cars and to help others - I'm not here "to always be right" like an internet warrior ![]() Don't leave that there - I'll take it to bits! |
#13
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Personally I'd find a Rear drive one and spend some money on a extra set of wheels + snow tires. It will do just as well.
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-diesel is not just a fuel, its a way of life- ![]() '15 GLK250 Bluetec 118k - mine - (OC-123,800) '17 Metris(VITO!) - 37k - wifes (OC-41k) '09 Sprinter 3500 Winnebago View - 62k (OC - 67k) '13 ML350 Bluetec - 95k - dad's (OC-98k) '01 SL500 - 103k(km) - dad's (OC-110,000km) '16 E400 4matic Sedan - 148k - Brothers (OC-155k) |
#14
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Quote:
The miliage is on the low side, which is a positive as well. I offered the guy 2k. He said no. The problem we have is that even with the body damage, and other issues, he thinks the car is in excellent condition. And, he is pricing based on KBB.com which is useless on a 20 year old car. There where a couple of minor rust bubbles as well.
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Eugene 10 E63 AMG 93 300te 4matic 07 BMW X3 14 Ford F-150 Fx2 |
#15
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Quote:
My must haves on a wagon are: Working SLS No Rust M103 engine Leather interior. No body damage otherwise No major wear on the interior. Bonus given for: Heated seats Mint exterior Mint leather interior Service history minimal fluid leakage After buying my 300e for 1k dollars 7 years ago, I know exactly how expensive a cheap Mercedes is. Id be willing to pay 5 grand for a REALLY good one.
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Eugene 10 E63 AMG 93 300te 4matic 07 BMW X3 14 Ford F-150 Fx2 |
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