my 300e-2.8 has no manuals and i'm relying on my usual resources to find an appropriate set. which bosch copper plugs are they anyway? i've tried searching the forums and the bosch site recommends platinums which everyone warns me away from. alternatively, i may want to use the ngk with the "v" electrode which supposedly gives you a better spark. those are easy to get. also, around here i couldn't find a place that stocked the copper boschs or find a cross reference - not pep boys or napa (will try strauss). also what i've found on the forums is that you can gap to .040 safely to get smoother running engine - does that sound right? thanks much for all the help thus far...

Forget NAPA and Pep Boys. Have you checked with Phil at this sites Parts Shop? If you're in a REAL hurry, go to your local MB dealer or look in your local yellow pages for an independent parts house that specializes in European cars.

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Mike Murrell
1991 300-SEL - Model 126
M103 - SOHC
"Fräulein"

i haven't checked with Phil, it would take at least until week after next to get them here though. does anyone know what the plug is for my 300e-2.8? bosch's site lists only the platinum. i guess i could mosey on down to the dealer on Tuesday. i am kinda in a hurry because i want to put the plugs in before inspection which i have to do soon (see me failed emission thread)...

My local dealer parts dept is open on Saturdays until 4pm CST, you may wanna check with yours to see if they are open on Saturdays and just get them there.

The plugs are about $3 each, so $18 for the set.

G'luck,

-Paul-

Most AutoZones have the Bosch Copper plugs. My local AZ has them for something like $.99 each. They should have the proper application for your car.

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Mike Tangas
'73 280SEL 4.5 (9/72)- RIP
Only 8,173 units built from 5/71 thru 11/72

'02 CLK320 Cabriolet - wifey's mid-life crisis

2012 VW Jetta Sportwagon TDI...at least its a diesel

Non illegitemae carborundum.

well, i couldn't find anyone that stocked the ngk anyway and i don't wanna put champions or autolites on. turns out the dealerships are open til 7 pm everyday so i'll just go there and pick up a set...

On that car, I believe that's a 104 engine. That uses Bosch F8DC4's, gap should be checked and set to .032", and the torque on those is 29nm.
Gilly

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Ordered mine from Phil (you've waited this long, what's another few days to support this BBS?). Bosch Super H9DCO. Gapped at .040. Runs great!!!

Good luck.
:p

Mike:
He has a 300E 2.8, that's a 104 engine. I believe the plugs you are recommending are for a 103 engine. The 104 needs the flat-ring type seal, the 103 has a tapered seat. I still believe the F8DC4 is the correct plug, and .032" (.8mm) is the correct gap for either engine. Torque spec on the 103 engine plug is 20nm, on the 104 with the flat-ring seal, it's 29nm.
Gilly

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still don't have manuals for my 93 300e-2.8 - someone keeps beating me out on ebay . can someone give me a quick review on getting at the plugs? i saw someone outline a procedure on a c280 (also a 104) - is that equivalent? the middle rectangular panel is what i have to take off the cam covers? do i really need a plug puller - and where do i get one?

Yes, the cover down the center of the valve cover needs to come off. First the cross-over tube comes off. The air cleaner side has 2 catches that are released, the intake side is a little trickier. If you look down where the cross-over tube bends down you will see there is a clamp around the rubber adapter that the crocc-over fits into. You can usually loosen this clamp with a long phillips or standard screwdriver. Then you will notice the 2 10mm nuts that also hold the crossover to the valve covr, remove these nuts as well, then the crossover can be removed, being careful to not stress the air intake temp sensor. You can remove the temp sensor if you'd like.
Next the screws that hold the coil cover in place can be removed, these all have 5mm allen heads. Once these are all removed, the coil cover can be removed, it's a tight fit at the rear, but it'll come off no problem.
No tools are normally required to remove the coils and wires. I hope I am correct, I believe this is a distributorless ignition. If I am correct, there are 3 coils above 3 of the plugs, and these each feed 1 other plug through a normal secondary ignition pigtail. I recommend marking where everything was prior to disassembly. Just mark the front one "1", the next one back "2" and so on to aid reassembly. The coil has a label on top that a magic marker will write on. On the ones without the coil you can mark a piece of masking tape or duct tape and stick it on there. The coils will simply pull off, as will the ones with the pigtail, all though not as easily as the coils. Just lay it all aside, leave it all connected. It's not that hard to reassemble. Remove the plugs, gap the new ones to .032" (0.8mm), install the new ones and torque to 29nm. Put it all back together and your done!
Gilly

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got the plugs at the dealer. thanks dan!