Got it! I went ahead and reset the codes again and this time DM/pin8/pin14 are all registering ones - no fault found. The CElight is still on the dash. I tried this procedure three times. Any ideas?

After code clear , you have to turn key OFF for 10 secs , key ON for 10 sec , and then start the car..the CE will go out unless you still have a code on the DM [ Push-Button]..

After following your procedure, the CE light is now off. I drove the car for 20 minutes on the side streets and it seems to be running fine. No CE light. Around the CMP sensor, there was a lot of "crud" that I wiped off before clearing the codes. Maybe this did the trick?

Go back into pins 8 and 14 after a couple of days driving to be sure . Remember , those modules can have codes way before the DM gets them and only the DM brings ON the CE lamp. So going there first will help isolate the problem faster . It very well could have been a poor connection at CMP..

Since the last post, I have been checking the codes on a daily basis. So far, no fault codes are resulting on the DM/pin8/pin14. I think the car is fine so far in regards to the fault codes.

From Post#2, I changed the rad cap and this seems to have done the trick. Thanks for all your help!

Cheers.

Rats! The CE Light came back on yesterday evening. Using the code reader, the codes resulted in the following:

DM:
22: Crankshaft position sensor signal faulty
25: Knock sensors or engine control module faulty

Pin8:
25: CMP sensor not recognized or implausible
33: Maximum retard setting on at least one cylinder has been reached or the ignition angle deviation between the individual cylinders is greater than 6 degrees crankshaft angle

Pin14:
1: No fault found

At this point, I'm assuming that I should replace the CMP sensor. Is this correct? If the CE light comes back on, then the CPS sensor or should I just replace both? What do you guys think? Is it safe to drive the car around until the components are changed?

How is the wire harness???

I checked the harness cable and it is fine. No cable deterioration or exposure of wires. It looks like it is still in good shape. When I change the CMP sensor, is there anything I need to be aware of?

I changed the CMP sensor and that was very straightforward. So, I went ahead and reset the codes and today, the CE light turned on again and came back with the same set of codes (that's strange). As the next step, I'm ready to change the CPS on the car. Can you please direct me where I can find this part on the engine? I searched the forum and I still cannot find the exact location. Thanks in advance....

Arggh! This is getting really strange. I changed the CMP, CPS and the knock sensors and the CE Light lit up again. The error codes are the same as before. I'm stumped. Any ideas? :confused:

Knock sensor?

All right, Mr. Dalton. You are correct. It eventually was the wire harness. After opening up the insulation on the old cable, you can definitely see the corrosion on the wires. I kept the old cable so I can examine it more. Got the part and replaced it using the DIY article posted on this forum.

Gee, what an ordeal but unfortunately it is not over....

The CEL light came on again and now the following codes came up...

DM:
5: Exhaust gas recirculation faulty

Pin8:
39: Exhaust gas recirculation switchover valve - open/short to ground or B+

Does any one know what this is and how to fix it? Thanks in advance.

Egr on DM Module is system failure detection. [ code5 on DM]

Egr SOV open is confirmation of possible fault for EGR system ..that info has been tranferrred to N/59 Emmissions Module from pin 8 HFM/SFI Module.

...meaning, you have a SOV not allowing vac supply to activate the EGR valve on demand and the cause of that failure is electrical at the SOV, not HFM signal.
My check would be to make sure you do not have the two SOVs mixed up [ one for EGR , one for Air system]..that is a common mistake when doing a harness. They are piggybacked and you can have either the connector wrong or the outlet vac port lines switched.
Check that first, if OK, then take an Ohm reading of the coil at the EGR SOV.

If you get that fixed, I would also recommend you do a hand vac test at the vac port of the EGR . Pull a vac there manually at idle ..when the egr opens , the engine should attemp to stall..if NO, then you have a blockage at the egr tube at the head or a bad EGR diaphragm. Tube blockage problem is infamous on 104 engines w/HFM.........................

The connections were good but went ahead and reconnected them. Cleared the codes and no further issues with the CE light.

Per your suggestion, I did the EGR check/vacuum tube block test and the results were good. From searching the forum, I will perform the cleaning for safe measure.

Thanks again to everyone for all their assistance. Learned a lot here and still learning!

Cheers.

Very good.
If you passed the hand vac test, then the probability of a blocked intake return tube is unlikely...but that model did have a Factory TSB on the EGR valve having a modified version update that remedied a sticking EGR valve actuating stem. They modified the diameter of the shaft so it would no longer hang up. That would be a possible concern if you get a repeat of CE w/egr code.