My wife was driving the wagon home from work and suddenly, the car started to feel a tad sluggish and jerky. So, she decided to exit the freeway and the car died at the stop light. Luckily, the car started again and drove the car home using the side streets. She noticed that the car felt more sluggish (loss of power), not as jerky, and the check engine light came on. According to a post in the forum, the fault codes indicated the following:

22 Crankshaft position sensor signal faulty
25 Knock sensors or engine control module faulty

Also, I noticed that the hose between the radiator and the thermostat housing (the one near the water pump) was collapsed. I never seen this before and I do not think this normal. Any thoughts?

My question is should I go ahead and purchase all the components or change them one by one. For instance, fix code 22 first since it may fix code 25 as other posts suggest.

Also, are these fixes a simple DIY jobs? What would have cause these components to be faulty? Any assistance is greatly appreciated.

Cheers.

CPS failure is common & most likely your problem.

If you aren't using 91 octane fuel you can get the code 25 for knock sensors.

As far as the hose goes...13-14 year old rubber hoses can fail. Also think of replacing the rad cap.

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Its most likely the CPS. Its an easy fix and the part is about 125$

I would go to pin 8 for code confimation first....

I would also check if the car has the new style OVP relay.

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A Dalton

Thanks, guys! I used the Built-in Diagnostic Module and the LED consistently gave me the same number of LED flashes after four tries. I am not familair with the pin 8 procedure. I used the post below to determine the code results:

http://www.peachparts.com/shopforum/showthread.php?t=107630

Is there something else I need to do? I already ordered the CPS part from Phil.

Cheers.

The Built In DM only gives you Emmisions related codes.
The actual detected faults you want to be concerned with are the ones directly from Engine Management of the HFM module . That is at pin *8 and if you go back to the site you were at , you will see how to go there with a simple tool.

Also check archieves for OVP .

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A Dalton

On my 95 E320 with mysterious stumble and multiple codes, the culprit turned out to just be the MAF.

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Prost!

This thread has the code list: Linky

Yours are interesting, don't know what to make of them.
25: CMP sensor not recognized or implausible
33: Maximum retard setting on at least one cylinder has been reached or the ignition angle deviation between the individual cylinders is greater than 6 degrees crankshaft angle

I think CMP is the camshaft position sensor.

- JimY

[QUOTE=jcyuhn;1950879]This thread has the code list: Linky

Post # 5....

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A Dalton

Clear the codes and see what comes back .
How is the Harness insulation? Specially at the Cam sensor.
I would also pull the OVP and see if there is any poor connection /tracking/burn at the socket pins..

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A Dalton

From post#10, the MAF was replaced about three years ago by the dealer. Yeah, ouch!

I was working on the car too late last night to realize that the codes from PIN 8 were already posted, Sorry!

When I removed the OVP to check on the part numbers last night, the harness looked good and the socket was clean, including the pins. I could not see anything obviously wrong with it. Does removing the battery constitute the same act as clearing the codes since I removed the battery when I was checking on the OVP. When I started the car the CELamp was off and then came on after 5 minutes. Then, I checked the codes again using the code reader. Same code results as before.

I will check the harness on the CMP tonight and will let you know. If the harness is good, should I go ahead and change the CMP?