I have a friend that has a 1995 E320 that will not start, the car will not even turn over it does nothing when you turn the key. I figured it was the neutral safety switch but that didn't fix it. He then had the electrical part of the ignition switch replaced that didn't fix it. I can run a jumper from the starter to the battery and it will start, but I am not getting any juice to the starter when I turn the key. What else could be doing this, I was under the assumption that it had to either be one of those three things; starter, neutral safety, or ignition switch. I am obviously wrong. If anyone has any suggestions they would be greatly appreciated. Thanks

If you're starting it by jumping from this battery to the starter it sounds like a bad lower engine wiring harness. This is the other harness that was subject to the biodegradeable insulation problem of the era.

Try fuse #5............

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A Dalton

It also looks like the lower harness on that car originates at the battery post - try cleaning up that connection.

The test point on that chassis is connector X27...that is where you can jumper to the starter w/o any difficulty. Do a search on X27 ..I have the whole procedure right there.

But look at fuse 5 first..that is Stater Interlock K38 relay feed on that chassis and is a very common and over-looked complaint/remedy. That fuse feeds the relay and w/o power to the relay, the car goes nowhere.

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A Dalton

If #5 fuse is good, does that mean that relay is bad? Can you point me to the location of that relay? Thanks alot guys.

K38 is behind the cluster...but you want to do the X27 jumper test first.

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A Dalton

I don't mean to hijack this post, but i'm having the same issue with my '95 E300. I have done the X27 test and all is good. I even took it one step further and found a 4 way connector (what I believe to be X49/2) and it worked from there. I manually bypassed the NSS (S16/1) and that didn't help. All my fuses look good. I am thinking it may be either K38 or possibly the ignition switch itself. Is there a way to isolate/test K38 before I have to pull the instrument cluster?

Thanks!

Check fuse #5..............

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A Dalton

I spent ALL day on this issue. I checked the fuses, I removed and bypassed the NSS I pulled the underdash and chased the wires... and then I read one post... it said "I don't care what you think about fuse #5 replace it". So I did. I went out there and as soon as I pulled it out of the clip it crumbled. DAMN! After that the car started right up. This also solved the buzzing my N10 relay was making.

I was happy the problem was solved, but frustrated that I'll need to spend a few more hours putting the car back together... all for what? A fuse. So advice to everyone out there... don't just replace #5... replace 'em all.

-thomas

You'r Welcome...........

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A Dalton