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Considering 1990 300E - thoughts?
Hi all,
I own a 1982 Benz 240D sedan which I only use in the summer (rust-free). I'm looking for an all-around car, for year-round driving, that will hold up well to road salt up here. This 1990 300E has come up for sale recently: This Benz was imported from Virginia in July of this year, great overall condition thruout, power sunroof, Leather seats & carpet like new, 111,000 miles (176,000 km) New Winter tires & new summer tires, new front ball joints, new muffler, new fuel distribution valve, New hand brake shoes & cable, New headlight switch assembly, New emergency flasher switch, New brake fluid resevoir seals & rad hose, New winter windshield wiper,Transmission fluid, gasket & filter were changed recently. Car was safetied in July. Power windows, front seats, power headrests, Power telescopic steering wheel,Alpine AM/FM CD player. A/C is working, Cruise control is not. 212 HP InLine 6 cylinder engine, very quiet & solid on the highway. Synthetic oil has been used in this car since new. Sounds good but I haven't seen it yet. Asking about $3500 firm. I haven't owned this series before (am more familiar with W123) so would appreciate some impressions on relative reliability and maintainability, and whether the specimen described above sounds like a good deal to consider. Thanks!
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1983 300TD 240K - 1982 240D 215K - 1996 Dodge Cummins 70K |
#2
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Nice model but seeing it is everything. HP is 177, not 212 - other claims may be sloppy as well.
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I'm a little puzzled by the claim of new hand brake cable, since there is no hand brake.
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08 W251 R350 97 W210 E320 91 W124 300E 86 W126 560SEL 85 W126 380SE Silver 85 W126 380SE Cranberry 79 W123 250 78 W123 280E 75 W114 280 |
#4
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rstl99, with all that's reportedly been done to this 1990 300E it makes one wonder why it's for sale ... especially with such low mileage. Price seems reasonable; however, a knowledgeable seller should know the engine is only 177hp. I would search for a 1994 or 1995 E320 ... a much more refined automobile and the best of the 124 series which are relatively easy for a DIY'er to maintain, depending on your skill level.
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Fred Hoelzle |
#5
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I know my way around diesels, but when I purchased my 1995 E320, I went for a PPI. It was the best $125.00 I ever spent, saving me thousands of dollars.
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1985 500SL Euro w/ AMG bits 130k 1984 300SD Turbodiesel 192k 1980 240D Stick China 188k 2001 CLK55 AMG 101k 2007 S600 Biturbo 149k Overheated Project, IT'S ALIVE!!! |
#6
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Quote:
90's gas-powered MB's are an unknown to me, I'm more of a hardcoded W123 guy. Perhaps as you suggest there are better models/specimens (I'm in no hurry at all to buy, just looking for a good deal and an eventual replacement next year for my ageing Volvo 240). Still, this one may be worth a look. Price is firm at this point. Interesting reference to handbrake if in fact this model doesn't have one?!? More to come (maybe)... Thanks for the thoughts folks!
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1983 300TD 240K - 1982 240D 215K - 1996 Dodge Cummins 70K |
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At that mileage, any M103 powered car would be considered a relatively high risk for headgasket failure.
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It sounds like a fine car, but as stated: seeing is believing. Run the title and see what's there.
The 124 was much better at rust prevention than the 123 body, completely different process. Should last several brutally salted years.
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Gone to the dark side - Jeff |
#9
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rstl99, it's always best to have a PPI (pre-purchase inspection) performed by a MB-trained tech before buying any MB automobile.
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Fred Hoelzle |
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i like mine however if its not the 4matic the snow driving could be hairy like the others say get it inspected by a qualified mb mechanic
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#11
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Quick update on this one. Snow storms and other events have precluded me from having a look and test drive, but I did manage to speak with the indie mechanic (mostly do european cars, but rarely MB) who was open and helpful about work done in recent months. Bunch of stuff to pass safety inspection etc. According to him, the body on the car is outstanding (no rust) and the interior is very clean. Engine compartment is clean too. Was not asked for and did not do compression test or other engine health checks. Replaced transmission oil filter etc. The couple of things he had noted needing work are:
1) transmission cooling lines leaking at rad 2) vacuum pipe at fuel pressure regulator is bad (was reinserted but will likely need replacement). Other than that, the car should be good. I'm still debating on whether this is the best all-around car I need, to complement my garage queen 1982 240D. Part of me thinks I should go for a less maintenance-needing Japanese car (Camry), or more modern car (CRV). Thoughts?
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1983 300TD 240K - 1982 240D 215K - 1996 Dodge Cummins 70K |
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CRV? Ask Paul over on the diesel forum what a headache that is, ... and compare Honda and Toyota parts prices to Mercedes before thinking the Camry is a good move either.
Not to bash Japanese cars, they're far better than some others, but they wear out also and get really expensive when they do.
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Gone to the dark side - Jeff |
#13
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Quote:
They are low maintenance until they reach a "worn out" point. Then its throw away time, they're way too hard/expensive to try to keep going.
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-diesel is not just a fuel, its a way of life- '15 GLK250 Bluetec 118k - mine - (OC-123,800) '17 Metris(VITO!) - 37k - wifes (OC-41k) '09 Sprinter 3500 Winnebago View - 62k (OC - 67k) '13 ML350 Bluetec - 95k - dad's (OC-98k) '01 SL500 - 103k(km) - dad's (OC-110,000km) '16 E400 4matic Sedan - 148k - Brothers (OC-155k) |
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Ok, point taken about Toyota and Japanese! Indeed, some pros and cons there too!!
How about the 2 problem items on the 300E, is this troublesome/costly to repair (I'm handy with tools and such)? Are parts readily available for it, as they are for my W123 diesel? Thanks!!
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1983 300TD 240K - 1982 240D 215K - 1996 Dodge Cummins 70K |
#15
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the 2 items you listed should be fairly cheap get them at a parts store or at least price check before going dealer
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