Pretty simple..
Do a search..there is tons in there.

On that car, the tool requires 12v to operate, so make those leads red and blk, as auto electronics are basically red for pos and blk for neg. Those leads will just plug into the #1 pin for neg [ ground] and the red to pin #16 for 12 v positive. That gets your 12v power to the tool............
Now, I make the third wire a different color, just so you don't get them confused....the odd color just goes to the different pins ..each pin is wired to a specific Engine Management module .
Example ..Pin 8 is the HFM/SFI ignition module...you go to that pin and it will get the codes in that module.
The retrieve/clear procedure is the same as one uses with the built-in LED , with a couple of exceptions for memory clear...but I will get to that after you get the codes just to save any confusion...
You just want to go see if any of the mentioned pins have any codes , as the CE lamp does not tell you that...the CE lamp only tells one if there is an offending emmissions code in the built-in module [= N/59 emmissions module]
The pressing down of the sw. simply sends an Initiation signal to the module and that sig tells that module to send back the stored info in the form of a Flashed/Numerical format back thru the odd lead...you count the return signal flashes and look up the code in that chart I sent you too.
These two mentioned pins [ 8/14] on that car tell much info from EA/CC/ASR/IGN/Injection/Etc...so they are the main ones you want to know, and you will not have anyway of knowing that there is a problem til you buy the car...just b/c there is NO CE means nothing... Car Sales guys use the Old No CE trick all the time....you want to go get the real codes before purchase..I certainly would.
If you get a Single Flash for those module, you are real cool b/c that means the are NO codes ..a very positive sign of the electrical mangement systems on that car.
That car is the last of the OBD1 Flash Format, so guys like them as far as owner code access...........
*One last note:
LED's are POLARITY sensitive, so make sure you adhere to the correct -/+ wiring... so many guys make the tool and then report back that it doesn't work, only to find they did not check that. When the tool is done , a quick test is to try it across your battery terminals... rd to rd / blk to blk...press sw., if it does not light when you press the sw, it is not in polarity.

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A Dalton