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  #16  
Old 01-04-2009, 07:41 PM
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Zerex G-05 is carried here by NAPA. Good luck.

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  #17  
Old 01-04-2009, 11:43 PM
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hey you will need to put a lot of heat to the plug to be able to remove it but the block needs to be empty of the fluid - if its submerged it will never let it get hot enough - short of garage type torches i would use MAPP gas - home depot sells it for a hand held torch - you might end up drilling a hole in the top area the place the metal is still thick and using a 18 inch type screwdriver to snap it loose - if you have someone who knows how to use a muffler gun that might help BIG but stay away from cuting on the flat against the block it wont seal up again and will be a pita forever -- jz
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  #18  
Old 01-05-2009, 03:40 AM
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Oh we got the plug out after some effort and the block was drained prior because when the head was removed, we didn't want anything leaking into the pistons from the heater hose.

Just need to replace it now

Perfect for that link the Oil Gallery Plug. Just need the seal now...seems that site does not carry it.

Planning to replace the chain tomorrow as I feel a little slack in it.
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Last edited by ps2cho; 01-05-2009 at 03:52 AM.
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  #19  
Old 01-05-2009, 05:21 AM
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That last link I posted for the oil galley plug had the part number for the seal ring. Give Fastlane a call and find out if they have them. Worse case scenario a stealership will have them .... they must be only a few dollars anyway.
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  #20  
Old 01-05-2009, 06:47 AM
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Nice pics. I recommend the MB coolant - I think you can get it on this site if your dealer has become too sadistic in his markup. You might want to repalce your water pump while you're at it, if you haven't already done that recently. It will also be a victim of the green stuff.
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  #21  
Old 01-05-2009, 07:28 AM
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91 300CE M103: 80 450SEL
 
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Hirnbeiss View Post
You might want to repalce your water pump while you're at it, if you haven't already done that recently. .
I second this, while my head was off, I debated about the water pump, but decided that because it was OK before the strip down, it should be OK after too. So I took a chance on it.

Now, I have a leak from it, from the rear of the pump. It probably was leaking before the stripdown, so I have another job to do!!!
All the best!!
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  #22  
Old 01-05-2009, 01:04 PM
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^ Yes I was told it needed to be replaced so I have one ready to swap in. Now would be the best time with everything stripped off either way.

--

Well I spoke to Phil and he said he doesn't carry them and to call the dealer. I'll see if I can get the right coolant while I am there.

I've never called the dealership before -- do I just call a local one or is there a special parts phone number to order from?
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  #23  
Old 01-05-2009, 01:06 PM
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I just call the parts dept at my local dealer.....they've always been able to get me what I need. Even the weird random stuff.
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  #24  
Old 01-05-2009, 01:44 PM
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ps2cho, price a reconditioned MB water pump at your local MB dealer. It will be less expensive than a new one, yet a high quality replacement.
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  #25  
Old 01-05-2009, 03:56 PM
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I bought a new Graf one for $140 off ********arizona (already have it). Forgot to buy a few seals though so gotta wait to put it in.

I also found a NAPA Auto store that carries the Zerex G-05 antifreeze! Bought their last box of it so I have 5 gallons now! Should be plenty enough
Did cost me like $80 for it all though lol!
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Last edited by ps2cho; 01-05-2009 at 04:09 PM.
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  #26  
Old 01-05-2009, 04:22 PM
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you might want to soak the plug with PB Blaster ( better than WD 40 but it stinks BIG ) for a day or so and start out and using an impact gun to try and break it loose but wire brush it good before soaking it as it will get in maybe -

when you install it make sure the threads in the block have been wire brushed real well and than cleaned with laquer thinner than you should use a thread sealer to install

Permatex High temp thread sealant - px # 59235
OR
Loctite 567 PST pipe sealant with PTFE High temp
for stainless steel and other Metal Fittings

i believe they are the same thing both companys its a paste
DO NOT use TAPE it will leak its for taper threads on plumbing pipes

hope that helps - jz
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  #27  
Old 01-06-2009, 11:55 PM
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Very nice and informative photos and information!

Hopefully my 88' 300SEL will not need anything like that anytime soon. I have 155K and no issues, so hopefully its already been done.

So, when replacing the headgaskets on these, nothing with the fuel system or any fuel lines have to be tampered with? Thats good to know if they do not.
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  #28  
Old 01-08-2009, 12:06 PM
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Nope. The MB CD and Haynes manual state that you have to remove with the intake side attached....but you don't as you can see from my pics. It's a little tricky getting at the intake manifold bolts...but you save yourself alot of time and hassle. Just push aside and pull up.
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  #29  
Old 01-09-2009, 01:57 AM
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Thanks for that info! Good to know if/when mine ever has the issue. As mentioned, at 155K and no problems, I guess its not totally out of the question that mine has not already been replaced.



Quote:
Originally Posted by ps2cho View Post
Nope. The MB CD and Haynes manual state that you have to remove with the intake side attached....but you don't as you can see from my pics. It's a little tricky getting at the intake manifold bolts...but you save yourself alot of time and hassle. Just push aside and pull up.
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  #30  
Old 01-10-2009, 02:27 AM
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Nice pics, are you going to get the valves ground and install stem seals too?

What size pics do you post? Those are nice and large. Mine always get's reduced to thumbnails.

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