Hi,

Looking for some help. Trying to replace leaky front oil seal behind front pulley/balancer. Can not loosen large bolt holding balancer to crank shaft. Is it reverse threaded? I do not want to force it.

thanks,
den
Plymouth, MA

On the 119 engine, it loosens the normal way (counter-clockwise). I had to use a floor jack under a breaker bar to get mine loose. Maybe this link will help, if you haven't already done the job.

http://www.peachparts.com/shopforum/showthread.php?t=190442&highlight=400e+water+pump

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1993 400E, 256,000 miles (totaled)
1994 E420, 200,000+ miles
1995 E420, 201,000 miles

I'm marking this for future reference.

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1994 C280, dark green metallic
105k miles

1991 190E 2.6, Black
191,500 miles
(sold to another forum member)

2003 Chevy Tahoe LT, Redfire Metallic
105k miles

1989 Mustang GT Cobra Convertible
43k miles

I just did this job about three weeks ago. The bolt is normal thread (righty tighty, lefty loosey) but has a very high torque spec. You will most likely need the crankshaft locking tool that engages the starter ring gear to prevent the crankshaft from turning when removing/retorqueing this bolt. Once the crank is locked, a three foot cheater bar makes the job very easy..............

Also, be sure to position the crank at 0 TDC prior to removing the balancer/pulley. That way the woodruff key will be at the 12 oclock position. BE VERY CAREFUL when you reinstall the balancer/pulley. It is very easy to push the woodruff key into the the lower timing chain cover if things aren't lined up properly. (ask me how I know........fortunately, the car gods were with me, magnetic fishing retrieved the key from the depths on the first cast)

J. M. van Swaay

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1994 E320 Wagon, 230,000 miles
1995 E320 Sedan, 106,000 miles
1994 E500 Sedan, 79,000 miles