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  #1  
Old 02-15-2009, 06:32 PM
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Posts: 43
Hall Sensor, Crank Sensor....

Hi J.HIDALGO,

Hummm, Stalling issue...?

The one who will be able to tell you change this part and your trouble will be gone in the world of Sudden Stalling Syndrome (SSS), isn't born yet.

The part who might stall your car are to numerous, from a defect alternator to a fuel pump and all the parts in between, it's almost a bumper to bumper situation.

Symptom might look the same sometime, with different issue.

On a more positive note, with dedication and procedure we can isolate and find those Gremlins causing SSS.

Do not start throwing parts at diagnostic, unless you're lucky, this will get you no where.

The first step in Sudden Stalling Syndrome world is to be able to read the diagnostic socket MB give you, it take me three years to figure that. Well, I'm slow.....

View this Diagnostic Socket as windows to see how your car feel, your car talk to you by those Windows.

The tools you need are not expensive and will open the windows.

You need to be able to read duty-cycle from the X/11 socket, you also need to be able to to read a pulse code reader for the X11/4 socket. All depend year and model of your car you will find the spec. in your shop manual. You also need basic knowlege in mechanic.

You will find plenty of help here if you can come up with info from those windows.

Other than that find a good shop, you trust and let them do the work, but please ask question.... Don't let him throw parts at Diagnostic.

To answer your question:

Quote:
Can the Hall Effect speed sensor stall a car...?
Yeap, you bet, MB get a Technical Bulletin Service (TBS) out in 1997 about this fact. the TBS number is DDAF07_32-U-6701A, on this TBS, OVP, HES, and EHA, was pointed out as a source for SSS.

The only problem the symptom don't fits...

"Engine Stumbles or cuts-out when coming to a stop, engine idle surges intermittenly"

You see what I mean??

Max
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  #2  
Old 02-15-2009, 09:57 PM
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Fuel pressure

Did you check fuel pressure and for leaks in the fuel system?

Recently solved a stalling problem in the 1991 190E 2.6 by checking fuel pressure and saw that the pressure wouldnt hold and sure enough it was leaking @ the fuel pumps.
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1986 300SDL, 211K,Dealership serviced its whole life
1991 190E 2.6(120k)
1983 300D(300k)
1977 300D(211k)
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  #3  
Old 02-15-2009, 10:07 PM
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As mentioned above...

Things just got worse. Now I have a start and die after only about 5 seconds. I wonder if both situations are related...I have not checked the fuel pressure but, if there was a fuel leak...why would it die in the the middle of the highway and would not start until the engine cools down?
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  #4  
Old 02-15-2009, 10:09 PM
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I did notice today...

the wire from the distributor to the coil has some marks on it...I will check tomorrow...
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  #5  
Old 02-15-2009, 10:29 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by J.HIDALGO View Post
Things just got worse. Now I have a start and die after only about 5 seconds. I wonder if both situations are related...I have not checked the fuel pressure but, if there was a fuel leak...why would it die in the the middle of the highway and would not start until the engine cools down?
You have a different problem then. Sounds liek it stalls when you accelerate or decelerate. I would check the componets of the cise to make sure its not something there.

I would check fuel pressure though only takes like 5 minutes. To answer your question if you have a fuel leak it would die because the fuel pumps cant keep up and fuel pumps would try to build up pressure hence not starting right away.
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1991 190E 2.6(120k)
1983 300D(300k)
1977 300D(211k)
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  #6  
Old 02-16-2009, 07:14 PM
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Location: Richmond Hill
Posts: 149
Hi there,

I suggest you;
Test the distributor cap With the meter set to measure OHM's (resistance) measure the resistance from each terminal one at a time with one probe in the centre of a terminal at the outside - and the other probe on the same terminal inside the cap. RESISTANCE SHOULD BE: 700 to 1300 OHM's

Test the rotor at the middle (where is contacts the centre cap terminal) to the outer peak. RESISTANCE SHOULD BE: 700 to 1300 OHM's

Test ignition cables and the spark plug connectors RESISTANCE AGAIN SHOULD BE: 700 to 1300 OHM's

Also your suspect main cable from the coil to dist cap.

Replace any component outside these specs.

Good luck,
Acky
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  #7  
Old 02-17-2009, 10:31 PM
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I checked the suggested parts...

and all of them are within limits. However, inspecting the coil I noticed a faint white spot behind the coil's metal bracket. Can you test the coil with a multimeter?
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