103 Stalling and not starting when warm... - PeachParts Mercedes-Benz Forum

ps2cho · #1 02-18-2009, 06:06 PM

I would start by actually replacing the OVP if all the instrument lights are on. Sometimes the fuses are absolutely fine, but the unit itself is shot. If it has never been replaced before in its life, then it probably time considering your stalling. The other possible culprit would be the voltage regulator attached to the alternator. These two, to my knowledge, would be the only items to cause illumination in the cluster. Start with the OVP then move to the voltage regulator.

I had the same stalling problem on my TE until I replaced the OVP. I also checked the fuses on it and it would just die randomly on me while driving.

300EforERIC · #2 02-19-2009, 01:37 PM

Sounds like you are having some of the similar problems that I had. I have a 91 300E. Check out my thread "Owner of a 91 300E looking for a cliff"

I replaced several things all of which temporarily helped but i now suspect they just needed to be replaced as maintenance.
I replaced...

Spark Plugs
Spark Plug Wires
Distributor Cap
Fuel Filter
Fuel Pumps

Finally the Pumps are what did the trick, Turns out the primary was overheating then killing. once the car cooled for bit it would start right back up only to do it again.
*I replaced the fuel filter twice, Once a couple hundred miles before a, once during the pump replacement.

Hope it helps.

J.HIDALGO · #3 02-19-2009, 08:00 PM

It was replaced once a while back. It could be the problem. I just have to find the time to test it. Hopefully this weekend.

Thanks!

Oracle12345 · #4 02-19-2009, 09:34 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by J.HIDALGO

It was replaced once a while back. It could be the problem. I just have to find the time to test it. Hopefully this weekend.

Thanks!

nmake sure its not leaking, which a fuel pressure test will show

hookedon210s · #5 02-21-2009, 10:24 AM

J.Hidalgo: My guess is the CPS---same thing happened to me. This is my experience from an earlier post:

Quote:

I recently had intermittent ignition problems with my 91 300TE (245K miles). The car first started missing intermittently when warm and then after 50 total miles of operation since the intermittent missing began refused to start warm (it had the audacity to leave me stranded for the first time in the 130K miles I have owned it. After the car cooled down it started and ran fine a couple of times until it finally wouldn't start cold. When attempting to start the car at this point the engine locked up (I wondered if the timing chain had slipped a tooth or two) and backfired through the intake manifold (indicating improper ignition timing) before it finally wouldn't "fire" anymore. Although I could hear the fuel pumps operating, I sprayed starting fluid into the air cleaner and cranked the car to make sure it was getting fuel. It didn't fire once. Next, I cranked the car with the coil wire disconnected from the distributor and observed a healthy spark firing at what seemed to be the appropriate intervals. I checked the distributor rotor and since the resistance of the rotor appeared too high I replaced it with a new rotor I had available. Still no start. I suspected the CPS or the EZL was the culprit. Since it was easy to check the status of the CPS, I measured the resistance (800 Ohms) and the cranking voltage (.4V AC) and found all to be within specs. Although I am not in the habit of throwing parts at a problem, since I needed to make sure the car was operable within a very short time period, I ordered a coil and CPS from an online source and purchased a used EZL from ebay. I installed the ignition coil first (the easiest to do) and the car wouldn't start. Next, I installed the used EZL (next easiest to install) and the car wouldn't start. Finally, I installed the CPS and the car started without problem. When I removed the old CPS I noticed that the seal around the wires at the sensor itself had failed and moisture/oil had penetrated the area. It is a mystery to me why the voltage and resistance measurements of the old CPS were within spec and the system appeared to have good spark but I guess that happens sometimes. Because of the backfires I did try to use my timing light to get an idea of the timing situation but because the light was not bright enough at cranking speed, I could not confirm that the timing was off (although I know it was due to the backfiring). I pose this question to the experts like stevebfl, etc.---How could a defective CPS presumably retard ignition timing to where the engine won't run yet still seemingly operate the EZL/ignition coil properly?

I am located in Jacksonville and can lend you a used good coil and EZL unit to try but my bet is still the CPS. Mark

J.HIDALGO · #6 02-21-2009, 08:19 PM

I guess I will have to get a CPS. So far, everything I measured is within limits...including the CPS. I even got an used coil from a junk yard. No luck!
Right now, I can hear the fuel pumps powering up, the car will star but, it will die within 5 seconds like if the engine was choking.
Did you access the CPS from the bottom and did you have to remove the oil filter?

hookedon210s · #7 02-21-2009, 08:35 PM

I accessed the bolt from the top but you do have to get underneath to determine where the cable is attached to the intake manifold and release the cable from these clips. I believe I did remove the oil filter to be able to see the attachment bolt but you can determine that as you go. A very bright flashlight will help you locate the bolt. IIRC it takes a 5mm allen socket, universal joint with a very long extension. Be sure to gunk the area well before removal---very greasy---and to clean out the allen head so you don't strip the the head and create a real nightmare

Let us know how it goes. Mark