thank you for the replies and for putting it in fairly plain terms. im going to go today to see if i can get the codes checked. ive read that in many cases its a progressive problem so I thought that if I dont drive the car for 2 weeks it wont get any worse and Ill manage to get to germany but because it happened twice on the first day then Im not sure anymore.

just throwing this fact out; my old battery was 100ah V12 while the one that they put in couple weeks ago is 90ah v12 from what I remember. I believe that these are the figures. Does this have any effect on it? Im not sure if this is related at all but sometimes as I start up the car and simply put on D, the car kind of chokes a bit fr a few seconds while driving min speed. It doesnt choke on start up but as you put on D and start moving the first 10-20 meters. Could both of these symptoms are related to the ASR and low voltage?

As you may know the Neutral Safety Switch is part of the ASR circuit. I have read many cases where the NSS starts going bad, and cars go into limp home mode.
A forum member (do not remember if this forum) had the same problem as yours, what he did was to drive the car in 3 and that solved the problem until he got home. The car was on running on higher RPM's, but at least he got home.
I am not saying that your problem is the NSS, but it "appears" that is the case. Reading the codes will definitely will help you to narrow it down.

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1999 Porsche 996 Carrera Convertible
1994 420E - SOLD
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UPDATE: I went to a mercedes dealer and got it checked out. There were no errors and the mechanic also checked the fuse etc and all seemed fine. It wasnt a full diagnosis but they said that if the problem occurs again I should come back. So what could the problem be if there is no error? He suggested that it could be just a one or two time thing that the brake did not connect in some ways which caused the ASR to go on but it was just an idea.

I also got the voltage checked and it was fine, close to the red but still on the green of the scale. They exchanged the battery though, just in case.

So any new ideas? Today when I was driving there were no problems. Im thinking that since the mechanic in MB said it was ok, and since I had no problems, that I shouldnt push my luck. I might stop driving for the next 2 weeks and then more or less safely drive home to Germany.

Ill keep the tip in mind with regards to driving in 3. I was thinking whether that would change help reduce the risk.

Like I said,,the suspect is low voltage and it can be caused after a couple of weeks b/c the voltage regulator is not fully rechanging the battery.. you are fine until the battery starts to get low. So, I would look into the VR..it is cheap and a very common, wear item... and it take 5 min to change.

They checked battery condition, but I bet they didn't check changing system, did they??

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A Dalton

well one mechanic simply plugged his device to the battery and checked its voltage but did nothing more. it was on the low end of the green from what I saw. So how does the low voltage explain the ASR light and limp mode if I may ask for my own knowledge?

I was also told that I shouldnt charge the battery via jumper cables to another car when my battery dies because it messes the computer ABS/ASR system in some way. I did not know that and did it anyways when my battery died a few weeks ago so this could be an additional factor to consider?

What I am telling you is the car is running the battery down b/c the alternator is not fully charging it...so, the test is to check the voltage as the car is running to see what the output of the charging system is.
A low V condition effects both ASR and ABS systems.
If you charge the battery as I recomended and the fault goes away with a fully charged battery, only to return a few days later, that indicated a low V conditon. The battery can not charge itself..so you want to know is " does the ALT put out the factory specs needed to keep the battery fully changed "..if NO, the first suspect is the Voltage Regulator b/c they wear out.
Could be new batteries in there every week until the Cows come home w/o solving the problem
Check the V output of the CHARGING SYSTEM..or have someine do it ..it takes all of 30 seconds..

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A Dalton

alright thank you, it sounds like very sound advice. had the alternator exchanged with the battery a few weeks ago because it ended up being the alternator which was not charging the battery. Ill get the voltage regulator checked out. Maybe this sounds stupid as I know literally nothing about it, but I would assume that a mercedes mechanic woul dhave checked this part too while they change the alternator.