Hello,
I have two questions concerning the rubber hose coming out of the fuel distributor of a EURO 280SL 1985, with M110 motor. The hose was in bad conditions, so i took it off, but now I'm having trouble finding a hose same size, anyone know which one i should choose? The hose is made of harder plastic inside, and soft rubber outside. Reference i can read but not find anywhere:COHNEN MULTILINE 360 0300 on the outside part, and the inside hose carry reference 313 0305. Not sure what mm size it is.
The second question is in the manipulation, the electrical connections got unplugged, and i can plug it back both ways. Not sure of the polarity. Please see the picture, and let me know if the size i chose are correct.
The picture also shows the location of the hose i am looking for. For now, i'm just using a shorter portion of the inside part.

Thanks!

I know exactly what you have. This part is not original to to the car but was added in order for the car to meet Federal emission standards. My 1985 280SE does not have this thank goodness. The part is known as a Frequency Valve and is used to adjust the air/fuel ratio. The other component to the system is the oxygen sensor. If that car were mine, I would remove the junk and thrash it as it DOES NOT need it unless you live in a state with emission laws. Your car is probably equipped with a catalytic converter as well. Something else it did not have from the factory.

Good Luck,

Aaron

Aaron, that does help. But it also create more questions. Thanks to you and your time. So here are some:
- I noticed my oxygen sensor is disconnected. If my frequency valve is disconnected as well, that means that there will not be any control of oxygen/fuel ratio. Wouldn't that result in a higher fuel consumption?
- Checking in Europe's car parts websites, they mention this valve as being present in M110 motor, wouldn't that mean it was already here when the part got to the US?
- If i decide to get rid of it, what if i unplug the power, will the valve be in an open position, or close position?
- At one point, if you can include a picture of this area of your car, it can help me recreate the configuration you have.
- What about the oxygen sensor? Is yours plugged? And if yes where? I need to know the wire path in the engine bay.

Thanks for your help, I know it's lot of questions.

Ok, I will try to answer your questions and help you as much as I can. First, my car was NEVER Federalized so it DOES NOT have any emission devices. I will try to find some diagrams of the M110 European version as my car is over 300 miles away from where I am. I will be more than happy to take pic's of it when I get back to it around the 13 of March. The car will run fine without the Lambda system, however, you will have to adjust the air/fuel ratio back to Euro spec and the timing will also need to be reset to Euro spec. The Frequency valve, from what I can tell by your picture could be removed by taking out the banjo bolt on the fuel distributor. The other side of it more than likely would be the same way.
As far as an increase in fuel mileage, my 280SE will give around 26 mpg on the highway if I run it easy and around 20 in town.
Give me some time and I will try to find some pic's for you.
Good Luck,
Aaron

That sounds great, really appreciate your help.
Will post more pictures and link to this thread, it may help as well. I think a lot of people can probably benefit of the emissions system details.
Thank you so much.

The problem with disconnecting that stuff is that its presence means that the baseline fuel trim is lean.

Fuel flowing through that valve increases the injected quantity, so disconnecting the valve will cause you to go lean. On the other hand, a disconnected O2 sensor shows no voltage, which is a very lean condition. This will cause the valve to flow fuel, and cause the engine to run rich.

You can adjust the warm-up regulator to get the mixture right without that stuff. It's a very tedious process, but it is possible.

Matt,
You are correct on a USA model. But the imported Euro car has nothing changed but the addition of the Lambda system. The base CO will need to be reset but the car will perform much better as it was originally equipped although it will fail emission testing.

Aaron

Ok, here is what the original setup looked liked. Hope this helps.

Aaron, Matt, thanks. Diagram should help. Can't do much at this point, cause of the snow we got here (NY area). Hoping to get to it this WE.
The CO settings are pretty obscure to m, so I'll need to spend time on that too.

Thanks for your time.

It's not too tedious once someone modifies it This fellow on the BMW board I frequent, modified and cleaned mine for $50. His email appears in the picture credit.

__________________
2005 Pathfinder LE
2001 E55
1998 M3
1982 320i

Good diagram Delta, the clearest i saw on the setting.
Anyway, planning to get rid of the frequency valve this weekend, following Aaron advices, and see what i get.
I need to get the car running, so i can troubleshoot my high idle, trying to find a vacuum leak.

The best way to isolate the vacuum leak is to disconnect and plug the lines leaving the engine going to the body. You must also realize that this car is equipped with a temperature sensing idle control valve that is adjustable. It is likely that it may just be stuck and in need of a good cleaning. The large rubber lines hooked up to the idle air control valve could also be cracked and causing problems. The idle adjustment screw is white plastic and located about six inches below the intake manifold towards the front of the engine. On my 280SE, if the temp is below freezing, it takes some driving to get it to idle down to base idle. When fully cold it starts and idles around 1500 and slowly tapers down to around 700 fully warmed.

Good Luck,
Aaron