W126 distributor cap, plug wires info - Page 2 - PeachParts Mercedes-Benz Forum

280EZRider · #16 03-12-2009, 01:29 PM

Sanding the end of the rotor does work; however, I have found it better to use a small screwdriver and carefully & lightly scrape off the deposits on the distributor contacts. This way you don't run the risk of reshaping the surfaces of the contacts.

I don't understand your term "silicone" plug wires. The best wires I have used are the ones with solid copper wire inside. They can last just about forever. If you have these, chances are your plug connectors are the culprit. I'm still using my original wires, but with new connectors. MBZ plug connectors come with resistors. This is why non-resistor plugs should be used to avoid compounding the resistence. I have had good results with NGK non-resistence plugs, as have the other guys.

unkl300d · #17 03-14-2009, 01:50 PM

Hi, my plug wires are BERU silicone. Silicone refers to the wire sheath. The internal wire is copper.
Supposedly silicone shields best.

I need to pull plugs, maybe today...

THX

unkl300d · #18 03-30-2009, 12:47 AM

Well today became delayed until today.

A trick for removing the plug wires is to hold the boots with both hands and swirl it around counterclockwise while exerting a bit of pull upward. This releases the boot w/o having to use a plug wire plier.

I found my spark plugs to be fouled on #1 cylinder and#5, #6. The rest were kind of mediocre.
I replaced with new plugs and it idles lots better.

Basically one can't expect a perfect idle with thiscar, but it no longer misses.

That tool for visually testing the current pasing thru the wire works OK. It determined the #5 & #6 as intermitant current w/o having to pull anything.

Job done.
Now for replacing all the brake pads, refreshing brake fluid and replacing the valve cover gasket.

Cal Learner · #19 03-30-2009, 07:00 AM

So cleaning up the distributor and rotor contacts and replacing the plugs is what you've done. Did that take care of the uneven idling and "explosive burps?"

Douge · #20 03-30-2009, 11:38 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Cal Learner

So cleaning up the distributor and rotor contacts and replacing the plugs is what you've done. Did that take care of the uneven idling and "explosive burps?"

I just replaced all the plugs and wires and the cap and rotor on my 300SEL and still have a lumpy idle. I am guessing I have something happening with fuel delivery, maybe fouled injectors although I did run a can of seafoam through it, or possibly an idle control issue. Runs fine though barring the annoying idle.

unkl300d · #21 03-30-2009, 01:15 PM

Cal, yes the explosive burps are gone.
I did not have to replace the plug wires or boots as they checked out OK.
No grey residue on the outside of wires and no visible electrical arches from boots.

The 300Se always had minor rough idle, but the sypmtoms that were just addressed were way beyond that.

gschira · #22 03-30-2009, 05:49 PM

Hey y'all,
Just wondering....My wires are all ok, except the coil wire. The insulation is charred bad, (all the way through) but luckily right where it passes over the distributor ('88 300 SE) and lays in the protective plastic piece. No arcing at all, (checked at night). I have a bit of rough idle and hard starting, so thought I'd replace that wire. My question--Does someone know where I can get JUST the coil wire, or maybe someone has an old ( but good ) one to sell me. All the places I've checked sell only the whole set at about $90.00 or more. Too much for just a coil wire, or whole set for that matter.....

tinypanzer · #23 03-30-2009, 06:01 PM

To use the 5mm hex on that bottom bolt, you put the long end into the bolt head and use a small piece of pipe (I used a threaded lamp rod) to put on the short end and you get your torque back. Once you get it broken loose, you should be able to spin it out by hand. It helps if you push down the serpentine belt a little.

Douge · #24 03-30-2009, 08:32 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by tinypanzer

To use the 5mm hex on that bottom bolt, you put the long end into the bolt head and use a small piece of pipe (I used a threaded lamp rod) to put on the short end and you get your torque back. Once you get it broken loose, you should be able to spin it out by hand. It helps if you push down the serpentine belt a little.

Actually, I accessed it from the side and broke it free and then stuck it through the fan blades and spun it out from the front and reversed it to re install.

I was able to find a set of wires for $30 at checker which included the metal boots. Not sure why you pay $100 for Bosch or Beru, just my 02.

mike303 · #25 03-30-2009, 09:00 PM

Can somebody please provide info on where to get non resistor plugs ,and part numbers especially with NGK,i read lot of threads here about 5bpefs if i am not mistaken,but talk about finding them,maybe somebody can shed a light ,thanks in advance.
Mike.

gschira · #26 03-30-2009, 09:01 PM

Are they copper?
I don't and I won't. My .02 2..........

Cal Learner · #27 03-31-2009, 12:32 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by mike303

Can somebody please provide info on where to get non resistor plugs ,and part numbers especially with NGK,i read lot of threads here about 5bpefs if i am not mistaken,but talk about finding them,maybe somebody can shed a light ,thanks in advance.
Mike.

The correct NGK copper core non-resitor plugs are available from the MBUSA Classic Center in Irvine. If you have the M103 engine, you want the BP5EFS plugs.

unkl300d · #28 04-01-2009, 06:55 PM

I'm pretty sure Kragen has them. Or just get them from FastLane Phil on this website.

OliverVB · #29 04-01-2009, 07:40 PM

To make it easier to remove the plug boots the next time, use a Q-tip to spread a little dielectric grease inside the rubber area of each boot. Works like a charm. Haven't had a boot stick for many years. Yes, a little twist of the boot before pulling up is the best procedure to break it free if stuck.

You may also buy a 5mm 3/8" drive socket. That, along with a short extension and a 6" drive did the job easily for me. Lots of creative methods employed by folks, though.

Good silicone rubber wires should last for a long time as the silicone resists heat and drying and cracking. Many folks leave the cap, rotor and wires on an engine for long periods of years and miles. This is not really a good idea as these parts deteriorate with age as they are subjected to the duty cycle extremes.

There is another plug type you can use in many of the Merc engines which call for non-resistor plugs. Nology is a silver electrode plug used for racing applications. Silver is an even better conductor than copper. The Nology plugs cover a slightly wider heat range, also. I have them in my '77 230, '90 300E 2.6 and have used them in several cycles. A little pricey but long lasting and with good performance.

http://www.nology.com/

gschira · #30 04-01-2009, 07:53 PM

Douge, Are the $30.00 wires you found at Checker copper?