W126 distributor cap, plug wires info - PeachParts Mercedes-Benz Forum

unkl300d · #1 03-01-2009, 10:55 PM

Hello,
my 1989 300SE has intermittant stumbles during idle. Like explosive burps.
(gas mileage seems to have dropped a bit)

My Beru silicone wires have 36K miles on them as does the distributor and rotor since brand new.
Should the wires, plugs and cap/rotor last longer?

Does the dist. cap come off with a 5mm hex? What tool is best used to manage the final third hex nut at the cramped bottom?

What is the best way to pull off the plug boots from the spark plugs?

I've researched the past archives and have a general idea on some stuff but seek some more updated detail.

Thanks car has 136K miles on odometer

pawoSD · #2 03-01-2009, 11:07 PM

Might be dirty/plugged injectors....tried running some injector cleaner? Redline SI-1 and Chevron Techron are good.

Our 300E has run smoother and smoother and mileage gotten better and better after running a few tanks with Redline SI-1 in it. It idles so smooth you can't even tell its running! As an experiment I have now switched to using V-Power gas instead of running Redline....to see if its just as good.

porkface · #3 03-02-2009, 01:22 PM

i'd have someone check it out before throwing parts at it. yes, cap, rotor and/or wires can cause what you describe. and yes, 36k would be a short life. the coil can act up, along with any fuel problem the car have might to cause the same thing. good luck, chuck.

unkl300d · #4 03-02-2009, 01:51 PM

Hey thanks so far for the opinions.

I did use chevron techron fuel treatment recently.

I also observed the engine running in the dark in order to spot any insulation gaps (sparks) at the boot ends attached to plugs.
none.

What's the best tool/strategy for the lower hex bolt on the dist. cap?

THX

pawoSD · #5 03-02-2009, 03:04 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by unkl300d

What's the best tool/strategy for the lower hex bolt on the dist. cap?

THX

An allen key? Thats what I used.

Did you pull and inspect the spark plugs? How old are they? Might have a dirty one (or more).

unkl300d · #6 03-02-2009, 03:10 PM

Hey thanks.

I plan to pull the plugs and dist cap to inspect.

You are right it may just be a plug. But the plug boots look like they need a gimmick to pull off w/o damaging them. I have a basic plug boot puller 'plier' cheapo but it really does not fit toward bottom for a good grip...

Dist cap: I did a dry run with a 5mm allen wrench but the lower hex nut is in a position where the allen wrench can not rest inside without the handle being avaivalble to torque it counterclockwise. It rest up onto the cap bottom or nothing.

Aardvark · #7 03-05-2009, 04:10 AM

A quick note on finding those arching electrical nuisances.
Sometimes they can not be seen under the hood, even at night. A trick I've learned when checking for plug wire arch, is a plant misting bottle, with good ole H2O. Spray the wires in the dark, and watch the light show begin. You will be shocked at how many electrical arches happen.

Aardvark

unkl300d · #8 03-12-2009, 12:26 AM

OK here is some more specific info for the archive.

I bought the Craftsman spark plug pliers (#947315) and a spark indicator # 19380, a pen that has a fuse that lights up and pulses with the current after placing the pen body over the plug wire. Neat.

Pliers and hand combined worked to remove the plug boots. I was told by a former 1989 420SEL owner that the boots need to be turned first then pulled out. Contrary to a forum poster that claimed rotating the boot does nothing...

I can not so far ascertain this point.

How to remove the distributor cap.

Remove the black plastic cover held by side tabs. Pull up and the thing comes off. It has tracks in the back side also that have to be fitted when replacing.

(allen wrench = allen key)

The dist. cap has three hex nuts. The two top ones are readily accessible and come off with a 5 mm allen wrench. (hex wrench).

The third one is located below and over the serpentine belt pullet etc.

Use a long armed allen wrench. Insert the longest arm's end into the hex bolt from the fan vantage point.
The radiator fan has one blade which is spaced farther apart than the rest. This area allows space to work within.

Use a 6 inch crescent wrench to grip the allen wrench arm from above.
Use the crescent wrench to turn the allen wrench and remove the lower hex bolt. Reverse for installation.

You must snap off loose the plastic plug wire cover plate (that sits on the valve cover) in order to allow the wires slack. This way you can pull off the dist. cap without having to disconnect any wires. Unclip the coil wire from the wire holder on engine body also.

Check cap contacts. Use sandpaper and an arced motion to lightly sand carbon from contacts. Contacs are concave so don't sand flat side to side.

Don't sand the carbon brush at the cap's center.

Do lightly sand the rotor's contact. It also has a curved surface.
Reassemble. Hand tighten the hex bolts. 'Torque' down the top two first then the bottom one last.

Cleaning the cap helped my problem a bit. It was not very dirty.
Now I need to remove all plugs. The pen helped me suspect the two plugs nearest the firewall.

I'll try atomizing water over the boots first.

my car has NGK plugs installed right now. 36K miles on 'em.

280EZRider · #9 03-12-2009, 01:29 PM

Sanding the end of the rotor does work; however, I have found it better to use a small screwdriver and carefully & lightly scrape off the deposits on the distributor contacts. This way you don't run the risk of reshaping the surfaces of the contacts.

I don't understand your term "silicone" plug wires. The best wires I have used are the ones with solid copper wire inside. They can last just about forever. If you have these, chances are your plug connectors are the culprit. I'm still using my original wires, but with new connectors. MBZ plug connectors come with resistors. This is why non-resistor plugs should be used to avoid compounding the resistence. I have had good results with NGK non-resistence plugs, as have the other guys.

unkl300d · #10 03-14-2009, 01:50 PM

Hi, my plug wires are BERU silicone. Silicone refers to the wire sheath. The internal wire is copper.
Supposedly silicone shields best.

I need to pull plugs, maybe today...

THX

unkl300d · #11 03-30-2009, 12:47 AM

Well today became delayed until today.

A trick for removing the plug wires is to hold the boots with both hands and swirl it around counterclockwise while exerting a bit of pull upward. This releases the boot w/o having to use a plug wire plier.

I found my spark plugs to be fouled on #1 cylinder and#5, #6. The rest were kind of mediocre.
I replaced with new plugs and it idles lots better.

Basically one can't expect a perfect idle with thiscar, but it no longer misses.

That tool for visually testing the current pasing thru the wire works OK. It determined the #5 & #6 as intermitant current w/o having to pull anything.

Job done.
Now for replacing all the brake pads, refreshing brake fluid and replacing the valve cover gasket.

tinypanzer · #12 03-30-2009, 06:01 PM

To use the 5mm hex on that bottom bolt, you put the long end into the bolt head and use a small piece of pipe (I used a threaded lamp rod) to put on the short end and you get your torque back. Once you get it broken loose, you should be able to spin it out by hand. It helps if you push down the serpentine belt a little.

Douge · #13 03-30-2009, 08:32 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by tinypanzer

To use the 5mm hex on that bottom bolt, you put the long end into the bolt head and use a small piece of pipe (I used a threaded lamp rod) to put on the short end and you get your torque back. Once you get it broken loose, you should be able to spin it out by hand. It helps if you push down the serpentine belt a little.

Actually, I accessed it from the side and broke it free and then stuck it through the fan blades and spun it out from the front and reversed it to re install.

I was able to find a set of wires for $30 at checker which included the metal boots. Not sure why you pay $100 for Bosch or Beru, just my 02.

mike303 · #14 03-30-2009, 09:00 PM

Can somebody please provide info on where to get non resistor plugs ,and part numbers especially with NGK,i read lot of threads here about 5bpefs if i am not mistaken,but talk about finding them,maybe somebody can shed a light ,thanks in advance.
Mike.

gschira · #15 03-30-2009, 05:49 PM

Hey y'all,
Just wondering....My wires are all ok, except the coil wire. The insulation is charred bad, (all the way through) but luckily right where it passes over the distributor ('88 300 SE) and lays in the protective plastic piece. No arcing at all, (checked at night). I have a bit of rough idle and hard starting, so thought I'd replace that wire. My question--Does someone know where I can get JUST the coil wire, or maybe someone has an old ( but good ) one to sell me. All the places I've checked sell only the whole set at about $90.00 or more. Too much for just a coil wire, or whole set for that matter.....