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1994 E320 Sedan Rear Suspension Trouble
Hey there.
More trouble! I have a 1994 Mercedes Benz E320 Sedan, manufactured in 2/94. My right rear suspension has been rattling for about a week. At first, at a relatively high frequency, kind of like a ping pong ball bouncing as the paddle closes in on it to the table surface. A relatively light sound. Today, a good bang started up in potholes. I looked underneath, and found chafing on the back edge of the control arm where it has been hitting the disk like body mount above it. The rear suspension is level, but I have noticed over the last few months that a diagonal bounce has developed from left front to right rear of the car when going over uneven surfaces, and suspected that struts would be in order soon. Now it appears that I might do some real damage if I don't get her fixed up pronto. I know I've been bad, but I sure would appreciate a second chance at getting some help here. Can anyone give me an idea of what to look at first? MUCH appreciated. Mark |
#2
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Pictures?
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#3
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Doing the rear brakes tonight and will take photos. Upload later. Thank you!
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#4
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The most common failures in the 124 rear suspension are:
The torque or thrust arm bushings (the arm that goes forward from the top of the hub carrier). Fairly cheap, simple job. Sway-Bar link. Fairly cheap and simple also. The lower wheel carrier bushing. Difficult, takes special tool to R&R the bushing on the car. Inexpensive part though. Many bushings in the rear suspension, any of them can and do fail, even the subframe bushings can cause some wander and do fail (sooner in warmer climates).
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Gone to the dark side - Jeff |
#5
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Well, I just jacked the car up and I can see that the chafing was just an illusion caused by the rain wettened control arm, where it deviates and a bolt is in it.
What I do see is that the plastic shroud over (and intregal to) the shock absorber (don't know what it's called) is broken off at the top, and so slides freely up and down, and sits at the bottom by default. It must be loud as it gets 'whacked' up against the top of the shock mount, but quietly rattles against the bottom on small bumps. That explains the light sound. It's a light piece! As it doesnt appear to be doing much good right now, would it be better to just cut it off? Then I can see if the whole sound/knock goes away, and check out Fastlane for replacements. And are there any suggestions for replacements? Is it okay to do just the backs? I don't want anything fancy. I just want a HIGH quality basic damper. Recommendations? Thanks much! Mark |
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Bilstein Comfort is my preference.
__________________
Gone to the dark side - Jeff |
#7
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Thanks Jeff. I like a smooth ride too, but occasionally like to get spirited. How do the Bilstein Comforts compare with original equipment?
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#8
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I don't think you'll be disappointed with the handling of the comfort, seem a bit firmer than what was there but it's been a long time since I drove my '91 new, ...
I read that Bilstein has sport shocks also, but I really don't want to change the ride quality so I stuck with the Comforts last time I bought. I have a set of Koni Sport adjustables, but have been afraid to install them for the above reasons. Last I knew, Koni and Bilstein were still the top quality shocks for these cars.
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Gone to the dark side - Jeff |
#9
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Install the Bilstein HD's if available---you won't be disappointed. The Bilstein Sport's have the same valving as the HD's but are shorter than the HD's to fit lowered cars. Mark
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#10
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Thanks to all for the advice. I've always heard Bilsteins were great. Price will be important as well, so I'll look them both up and see what's what.
Back to the noise in the back suspension: I fastened the splash guard back up to the top of the damper with, ahem...coat hanger...well...just to see if things quieted down. It still doesn't feel or sound right. I think these are the original dampers. I bought the car with 69,000 miles on it, and I've never replaced them. Now I have 158K on them, so they MUST be ready for retirement. Has anyone done just one axle at a time. Is that okay, or does it introduce unwanted over/understeer problems? Mark |
#11
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One axle at a time is fine. The rear shocks have more of an impact on ride quality than you would think. Mark
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#12
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Thanks Professor, Jeff and Mark. No doubt I'll be back with questions and worries once I get a hold of those new dampers.
Mark |
#13
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Wait. I'm confused. Is there a shock absorber in the rear and a strut in the front?
Mark |
#14
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Quote:
Mark |
#15
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Got it. And what's nice is that shocks are less expensive than struts. And since I need shocks, not struts, I'm a happy man...for now.
Do I need to worry about the components at the top of the shock tower? Should those parts be replaced as well? The bump stop, and what have you? Thanks Mark. |
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