Water Pump Drain Tube gasket??? (1987 260E) - Page 2 - PeachParts Mercedes-Benz Forum

throne7 · #16 04-06-2009, 01:46 AM

Hi Ivanerol.
OK, I went and removed the radiator and the shroud. But still can't get the fan blade assembly off. I made a piece of wire and tried to stick it through the hole but can not seem to find any hole. Perhaps my wire is too thick? What is the trick to getting this wire through the hole. By the way, how come your engine is so clean.

I also tried to remove the three bolts that hold the plastic fan blade to the clutch but one of the bolt is rusted and the allen key just spin freely inside. So I have no choice but try to get the wire trick to hold the pulley in place so I can remove the middle bolt. See the photo.

Notice the indy put green coolant in my car? How could he not know that benz uses special yellow coolant.

I guess I will go back at it Monday night.

Ivanerrol · #17 04-06-2009, 05:08 AM

Crikey you have some serious corrosion issues there.

I would be replacing that heater return pipe (after you get it off.).
Looks like you will need a new fan clutch and fan also. Unless you can get that last bolt out.

Picture no 2. that's the notch your home made tool gos in. You turn the fan around until you feel the tool jam into a hole in the " pulley holder". When it'
s in you shouldn't be able to turn the fan I would be using a bit of loctite or rust free on those bolts before you try to undo them.

The tool should be made from1/4 inch or 6mm rod.

My Engine compartment is clean because my car has been imported from Japan. When a use car is imported to Australia more often than not the underbody and engine compartment are steam cleaned. I have kept it clean since I owned it.

Gilly · #18 04-06-2009, 06:11 PM

Sorry to chime in so late on this. If you go all the way back to the original picture (in post #6) doesn't that leak strike anyone else as NOT being from the water pump anyways???
To me it's more likely just one of the clamps that hold the bypass hose to the water pump/cylinder head. Or possibly the thermostat cover or o-ring?? If the waterpump leaks it doesn't end up on TOP of the waterpump dah!

I know this was pointed out once, put the picture in post #1 is NOT a drain hose, it is for the heater. Maybe everyone got distracted by thinking that this was a pic of the plastic drain tube that you sometimes see on a 103 water pump? It was added later on to some 103 engine water pumps, not sure what exactly it was added for, but the one HE is talking about is a heater pipe, and yeah the o-rings harden and crack on that pipe ALL the time.

Gilly

throne7 · #19 04-07-2009, 03:04 AM

OK everybody, more progress. Today I crafted the tool to lock the fan pulley and successfully removed the fan blade. I went to the dollar store and bought a dollar item and bent it into this shape (Wile E Coyote... you are a genius!). See Photo! Works like a charm. Anyway, I tried to pull off the pump pulley, but after removing the three bolts, the pulley wouldn't budge from the pump. The two items are rusted into one piece. Another thing. I think the tensioner is shot. I turned the bolt (that points up towards the sky) clockwise & anti-clockwise all the way, but the belt doesn't seem to completely slack enough that you can just lift it off the pulleys. I had to use a crowbar to pry it out. Its out now, but I am not sure I can put it back afterward. Anyway, I am going to pull out the water pump tomorrow.

Ivanerrol · #20 04-07-2009, 05:41 AM

Without the amount of corrosion that you have, my fan pulley is a little stiff to get off. You may need to utilise a rubber persuader and a little bit of rust shifter such as penetrene on yours.
The pulley needs to be "loosened and then "'walked off".

You need to remove this pulley to get at the bolt that holds the "y" bracket on to the engine block.

You can remove the tensioner without taking the Y bracket off but it makes the job a lot more difficult for the shade tree mechanic.

I'd suggest that the fan clutch is cactus. New one required. Its probably rusted up anyway.

throne7 · #21 04-07-2009, 10:43 AM

This morning I went and see if I can remove the pump, first by removing the rubber hose that connects the pump to the engine block.

Was I ever surprised when the screw driver would not get a grip on the clamp screw, it just rotates the clamps around, no resistance at all. I took a closer look and found the clamp had snapped in the middle. I pulled it straight off the hose.

Guess what? I bet this is the source of the leak all along. Have been barking up the wrong tree. I am going to get a new hose and set of clamps today and probably will just put everything back together to see if it works. Geez, how could I have overlooked this simple check.

Gilly · #22 04-07-2009, 04:13 PM

YEAH I think someone mentioned yesterday that it didn't even look like a waterpump leak........

'course I didn't see this thread til last night. At this point if it DOES fix the leak, it sounds like you might have to go ahead and replace the belt tensioner, if you have it loose now it probably won't tighten up again.

Gilly

Gilly · #23 04-07-2009, 04:16 PM

Oh and as a minimum you need a new o-ring for the steel pipe for the heater (the one you were calling the drain tube) and probably one for the thermostat cover too. MAN that hose (that the busted clamp holds on) really looks bad, but you have to take the waterpump off to replace it.
Gilly

throne7 · #24 04-07-2009, 04:34 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Gilly

Oh and as a minimum you need a new o-ring for the steel pipe for the heater (the one you were calling the drain tube) and probably one for the thermostat cover too. MAN that hose (that the busted clamp holds on) really looks bad, but you have to take the waterpump off to replace it.
Gilly

Are you serious? I was going to just replace the hose and the clamps and put everything back. Is there anyway to wiggle a new hose into that place?

Gilly · #25 04-07-2009, 07:52 PM

There is a stub on the cylinder head that the hose attaches to, and a stub on the water pump, that hose is only bridging a gap of less than 1/4", so there is no way to wiggle the hose in between the pump and head, the water pump comes off to replace that hose. Also note that is a special hose that comes from Mercedes (fairly cheap), the size on each side is different, there is a "step" in sizes from the pump to the head.
Gilly

Gilly · #26 04-07-2009, 07:53 PM

OH but you CAN replace just the clamps, you just unscrew them, slip them around the hose, then tighten them, the clamps aren't a problem, I have had to do that before, it's easy, but no you can't do just that hose without the pump coming off, trust me.
Gilly

Ivanerrol · #27 04-07-2009, 08:10 PM

You have so much corrosion around there, the proposition of starting to remove more serious items may result in corroded bolts snapping off or finding other items that are working now but on their last legs and this may lead to giving you all sorts of headaches.

As Gilly has mentioned the pump needs to come off to replace that small hose between engine block and pump. Even though it looks crappy I would potentially leave it there and just get some new bands to tighten it up. You already need a new fan clutch and thermostat gasket.

IMHO you have so much corrosion there it maybe better to let sleeping dogs lie. Already you have removed some items and found they need to be replaced - all in the cause of fixing a small water leak.

throne7 · #28 04-07-2009, 10:34 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Ivanerrol

You have so much corrosion around there, the proposition of starting to remove more serious items may result in corroded bolts snapping off or finding other items that are working now but on their last legs and this may lead to giving you all sorts of headaches.

As Gilly has mentioned the pump needs to come off to replace that small hose between engine block and pump. Even though it looks crappy I would potentially leave it there and just get some new bands to tighten it up. You already need a new fan clutch and thermostat gasket.

IMHO you have so much corrosion there it maybe better to let sleeping dogs lie. Already you have removed some items and found they need to be replaced - all in the cause of fixing a small water leak.

You are quite right. I wouldn't want to do more than i have to. I bought a new by-pass hose, and thermostat gasket today, but I prefer not to remove the pump if I don't have to.

So I guess I will just slip a new clamp in there and tighten it up.

throne7 · #29 04-07-2009, 10:37 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Gilly

There is a stub on the cylinder head that the hose attaches to, and a stub on the water pump, that hose is only bridging a gap of less than 1/4", so there is no way to wiggle the hose in between the pump and head, the water pump comes off to replace that hose. Also note that is a special hose that comes from Mercedes (fairly cheap), the size on each side is different, there is a "step" in sizes from the pump to the head.
Gilly

Yep, I bought the by-pass hose today for $11.75CAD. The diameter is larger on one end. I guess I won't use it after all, I will just tighten the existing hose without another clamp.

Ivanerrol · #30 04-08-2009, 01:10 AM

You can reassemble everything and leave the fan clutch and fan off to test.
You will still need to replace the heater pipe. There is a allen headed bolt behind the fan pulley that must be removed to change this pipe. You don't need to remove the fan pulley but you will need to remove the distributor cap to get at it. Don't forget to get a new o ring for the heater pipe where it goes into the water pump.
The radiator can go back in. A new fan clutch is a doddle to put in later.
If the hose between the engine and thermostat still leaks then you have no alternative than pull the water pump.