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  #1  
Old 03-22-2009, 11:44 PM
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'88 300 SE Fan clutch

Just wondering how to tell when to change fan clutch. How can you tell when it is going bad. PO had new radiator installed and I just don't want the fan to mess that up, Car has approx 138k miles on it. Some engine noise at front. Have changed tensioner pulley and idler pulley and alternator. How do you isolate noises from different components, ie power steering, ac compressor, water pump, and fan clutch, when they are all tied together with one belt? Thanx..........
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  #2  
Old 03-23-2009, 03:35 AM
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You can isolate noises by using an automotive steathascope(sp?) or my fave, use a standard broom. You put the handle end on the suspect device and listen on the broom end.
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Warren

Currently 1965 220Sb, 2002 FORD Crown Vic Police Interceptor

Had 1965 220SEb, 1967 230S, 280SE 4.5, 300SE (W126), 420SEL

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Not part of the in-crowd since 1952.
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  #3  
Old 03-23-2009, 09:14 PM
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Thanks for the reply,
How do you get that broom onto the fan clutch, or stethoscope for that matter?
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  #4  
Old 03-23-2009, 09:26 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by gschira View Post
Thanks for the reply,
How do you get that broom onto the fan clutch, or stethoscope for that matter?
Carefully.
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  #5  
Old 03-23-2009, 09:29 PM
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Yeah Douge, REAL careful!!
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  #6  
Old 03-26-2009, 09:04 PM
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Hello everyone,
This is still a standing question. Any answers??? Thanx.........
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  #7  
Old 03-27-2009, 04:08 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by gschira View Post
Just wondering how to tell when to change fan clutch. How can you tell when it is going bad. PO had new radiator installed and I just don't want the fan to mess that up, Car has approx 138k miles on it. Some engine noise at front. Have changed tensioner pulley and idler pulley and alternator. How do you isolate noises from different components, ie power steering, ac compressor, water pump, and fan clutch, when they are all tied together with one belt? Thanx..........
Again, use an automotive stethoscope. The fan clutch should be changed when it is no longer effective. It's filled with silicone.
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Regards

Warren

Currently 1965 220Sb, 2002 FORD Crown Vic Police Interceptor

Had 1965 220SEb, 1967 230S, 280SE 4.5, 300SE (W126), 420SEL

ENTER > = (HP RPN)

Not part of the in-crowd since 1952.
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  #8  
Old 03-27-2009, 06:06 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by wbain5280 View Post
Again, use an automotive stethoscope. The fan clutch should be changed when it is no longer effective. It's filled with silicone.

So what should we be listening for (and where)? Obviously not the clunk clunk clunk of the fan hitting the broom!
With the fan shroud on, it's a little difficult getting a broom handle down on to the centre of the clutch.
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  #9  
Old 03-27-2009, 06:14 AM
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The fan should be stiff to spin when the engine is hot. If it free wheels, there is a very good chance that the fan clutch has had it. My 260e has a whistling sound coming from the alternator area. The alternator has a lot of free movement on the pulley indicating the bearing is on the way out. If the tensioner is not installed exactly correctly you can get a squeal squeak type of noise that seems to come from the fan belt.
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  #10  
Old 03-27-2009, 09:26 PM
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Thanx for the replies guys,
Where do you place the stethoscope on a running engine to isolate fan clutch noise. The "real estate" between fan clutch and water pump seems so close. Doesn't the noises of one or the other transfer through the metal of the engine. I am already aware I should change it if it is bad. Just trying to figure out if it is bad (thus my original question). I have already installed tensioner pulley, idler pulley, and alternator (correctly) so I have already ruled out these items. Again, thanks for your input........
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  #11  
Old 03-27-2009, 09:36 PM
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I agree with Ivanerrol, the fan blade should be difficult to turn by hand with the engine warm/hot. If the fan spins free (with hot engine) then the fan clutch is shot.
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  #12  
Old 03-27-2009, 09:42 PM
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ok, I'll try turning fan with engine at normal op temp. tomorrow. Thanx.......
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  #13  
Old 03-27-2009, 09:53 PM
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i dont see much room on my 90 300se, any ordinary wrench will be impossible to reach the nuts & bolts, i talked to merc dealership, they say there's a special wrench to undo it, anybody knows what it looks like, shape etc. TIA

My 126 300 sd was tight but not impossible to change the clutch assembly.
I did install one from a 560sel, the air volume was unreal, so much air blowing to the point the insulation foam under the hood disintegrate pretty soon. The car eas sold not long ago.

Now my 90 300se I do notice the temp can get hot in crawling situation , luckily the dual electric fan do kick in at 100 ish or else the result will be precipitous.
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Last edited by SD300; 03-28-2009 at 12:45 AM.
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  #14  
Old 03-27-2009, 10:14 PM
mak mak is offline
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testing clutch

roll up a newspaper and with the engine cold you should be able to easily stop the fan and listen for any any noise.
when hot the fan will not stop with the rolled paper. (proper operation of clutch)
if the engine runs very hot the cut in point of the clutch can be brought down to a lower cut in point by shimming the temperature thermoplate on the clutch (1mm).
the tool is nothing special just a 4mm or so thicl rod bent ay right angle about one 1".
mak
300se
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  #15  
Old 03-27-2009, 10:15 PM
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SD300-where did you come from? yikes
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