Greeting's again all!
This time my problem is finding a place to get these parts for WAY LESS than the $2,141.00 the MB Dealer quoted me. Here is what he called them (after the 115.00 diagnose).
EA CONTROL MODULE (EA is I think for Electrical Assist?)
STARTER LOCKOUT
NEUTRAL SAFETY SWITCH (this one I can find)
Replacing these are supposed to stop my ASR System from coming on whenever it feels like it.
Thank you for any help you can offer.

Did you give Phil a call?

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BENZ THERE DONE THAThttp://www.peachparts.com/shopforum/...c/progress.gif
15 VW Passat TDI
00 E420
98 E300 DT
97 E420 Donor Car - NEED PARTS? PM ME!
97 S500
97 E300D
86 Holden Jackaroo Turbo D
86 300SDL
(o\|/o)

Starter lock-out /neutral safety switch is only 1 part & could be the cause of the problem.

I'd have it replaced 1st! MB number is 000-545-62-06

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MERCEDES Benz Master Guild Technician (6 TIMES)
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Retired Moderator

so will this car even run, at all?

The NSS is on the drivers side of the AT and the shift linkage goes through it. There is also an exectrical connector.

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Regards

Warren

Currently 1965 220Sb, 2002 FORD Crown Vic Police Interceptor

Had 1965 220SEb, 1967 230S, 280SE 4.5, 300SE (W126), 420SEL

ENTER > = (HP RPN)

Not part of the in-crowd since 1952.

Thanks, the NSS, is not to expensive and is fairly easy to find, I will try it and report back. And yes, the car runs fine, the ASR will just "kick in" for no reason whatsoever, then it feels like there's a tennis ball under the gas pedal.

Do not install an EA control module. (electronic accelerator) It is almost NEVER the problem even when the only code is "control module faulty". The electronic throttle body is typically the problem but needs to have a competent tech diagnose it first as it is a pretty expensive part too.

I'd recommend finding an good independant shop to take that car to as it is 16 years old and it's rare to find a 16 year tech at a dealer. Guys like that are in demand and most dealerships won't pay them what they are worth. To a lot of dealers, service is a necessary evil. They want to sell you a new car, not fix your old one. They tend to have a high turnover rate in the shop, which means younger inexperienced techs that are trained on cars 15 years newer than yours. To fix your car as cheaply as possible you need a tech who is familiar with those cars. There are a lot of pitfalls that can cost you a lot of money if they don't get it right the first time.

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90 300TE 4-M
Turbo 103, T3/T04E 50 trim
T04B cover .60 AR
Stage 3 turbine .63 AR
A2W I/C, 40 LB/HR
MS2E, 60-2 Direct Coil Control
3" Exh, AEM W/B O2
Underdrive Alt. and P/S Pulleys,
Vented Rear Discs, .034 Booster.
3.07 diffs 1st Gear Start

90 300CE 104.980
Milled & ported head, 10.3:1 compression
197° intake cam w/20° advancer
Tuned CIS ECU
4° ignition advance
PCS TCM2000, built 722.6
600W networked suction fan
Sportline sway bars
V8 rear subframe, Quaife ATB 3.06 diff

Thanks for the tip! The price of the part alone was enough to make me try "other" fixes first. The NSS should be here by Tuesday.