Under the car, the rod that connects the shift lever to the transmission should have bushings at each end. Without them there's about 5/8" slack in the connecting rod to pivot arms. Is this sufficient slack to prevent shifting the car into reverse?

When I move the shifter into P, N & D, it engages the trans for that gear.

thanks, Bob

R is next to N , between P and N, so try on each side of the shiftgate Index for R to make sure you are not in N or P b/c of bushing slop...
If you can not find R anywhere between P and N ,that is not the problem
[ make sure you wait on each side b/c R takes a little slag of time to engage.]

You can also tell if the trans gear selection is in the correct R position by having someone tell you when the Back-up lamps are ON as you fool with the shifter. If your NSS was aligned before no R , then it should still be in the R shaft position of the tranny, regardless of the shifter link or bushings.
Meaning lamps shoud be the same position as R engagement position of shift shaft that goes into the tranny. You have BU lamps and no R , you have a likely trans R clutch problem [ kinds common]

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A Dalton

Hi Arthur,

I hope you're enjoying the summer and doing well.

Last night when I prepared to back [R] uphill onto my carport was when it wouldn't engage R. Therefore I just drove around block and drove in nose first.
Now it just engaged all gears, but with clunking from rear [diff. axles drive shaft]. Front & rear flex disks look good, only a little seepage on one axel at diff.

Any thoughts?

First sign of R going is when you are backing on an incline..[ more load on R]

However , no R on incline is also the first sign of low fluid level, so check that right away on level surface. [ Hot]

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A Dalton

Assuming R is going, is there a way for inde or good tranny shop to determine condition without pulling tranny. And I was so joyful the other day to get her to 165k this year.

Fluid level was ok a few days ago, but I'll check it again tomorrow after daylight test drive.

Why the clunking [as in slack] in rear end?

Could be flex disc, but when R is going, you can get that same effect.

Usually when R is going, it is usually preceeded with a time delay going into R for a while.

Check the fluid first.
And search No reverse...tons of info b/c it is the first complaint on these trans w/miles on them.

I did a few with a hopeful filter /fluid change when they started showing signs , but it did not help.

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A Dalton

http://www.peachparts.com/shopforum/showthread.php?t=254000&highlight=reverse

Thread # 16

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A Dalton

That's been happening for a few months and now I'm thinking the delay time has gradually been increasing.

Do you know of any good source[s] for a remaned tranny? Or can a good inde or tranny shop do as well?

I don't

But that trans is not something a good shop would have any trouble with..they know the few faults of those , like B2 piston and stuff..and most of the kits come with the up-grades right in them.

Go to that post I sent you to and print out that site on page 16 and if you go somewhere , stuff that in tha guys face and say, " You familaiar with these ?''

or...SB is real familiar with those and rebuilds them

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A Dalton

Arthur,
Thanks again for all you're help. Especially for my actuator learning experience a few years back. It's been a lot of fun learning to DIY with help from you and the other contributors.
Bob
PS I'll take the article with me to the tranny man.

Yeah..print out that whole Post, along with the TransTec Repair manual on page 16.
You will know right off if the guys is hip cuz he is gonna say .." Ya, we know..reverse clutch pak is shot and B2 piston , dey all do dat... Binga -Bang- Budda-Fooko."

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A Dalton

I should have asked yesterday...

What trannies will work with a 94 e320 Wagon, in the event I find a "low" milage one?

Bob
PS Oil change "dip stick" thread. I'm still old school and draining "crudy" oil out the bottom of an engine makes more sense to me. Besides I get to yank on and look at that stuff under the car and wonder how they figured it all out.

You may want to check out this post.

http://www.peachparts.com/shopforum/showthread.php?t=254000&highlight=tenor+man

There is a ton of information in these forums of the dreaded reverse failure in the 722 line of transmissions.

This one has 170,000 miles on it...

I believe that the problem is caused by the spring retainer (it's the part that is in three pieces and broken pins). It it held in place under tension by a small (1mm) diameter wire clip (not shown in the photos) around the shaft.

The spring retainer is made from cast metal (looks like what we used to call "pot metal").

I believe the the spring retainer suffers from fatigue and slides past the metal ring, popping all of the springs out and letting the B3 (reverse) piston ride against the clutches and then wearing out the 4 friction disks...

In short, the transmission must come out...sorry.

The Tenor Man

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Currently Driving.....
1987 Mercedes Benz 300D Turbo - Daily Driver.
2004 Buick Rendezvous...Smaller than it looks!
2005 Mitsubishi Galant - Not bad for a tin box...Lousey Seats
Past Vehicles.....
1994 Dodge B-250 Van- GAS HOG..Succumbed to rust!
1989 Mercedes Benz 260E - Totaled but no one injured.
1977 Mercedes Benz 240D - Loved it, but SLOWWW! - Succumbed to RUST!
1976 Mercedes Benz 240D - Same as above! -
1975 Mercedes Benz 240D - Same as above!

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Post # 7....................

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A Dalton