Please help E320 engine removal - PeachParts Mercedes-Benz Forum

muddfun · #1 07-29-2009, 05:40 AM

hello
can anybody tell me what the easiest way to remove an engine from a 1997 E320? Tranny need not come out for mechanical work.

thank you in advance

lupin..the..3rd · #2 07-29-2009, 02:02 PM

First disconnect all the wiring and fuel lines. Then undo everything else. Then you take the engine out.

muddfun · #3 07-29-2009, 02:04 PM

Thanks for the response.
However, I need to know if it comes straight out or at an angle or should the tranny come out as well as one unit?
all hoses and wiring has been disconnected.
just not sure and want assurances that this is easily done as any other normal vehicle
thanks again

mbe32094 · #4 10-10-2009, 01:31 AM

I plan to pull out the engine from my 94 E320. Can you tell me how did you remove the engine? I had all the wiring and parts attached to the engine disconnected and removed except the tranny.
Any help is appreciated.

Thanks.

wbain5280 · #5 10-10-2009, 05:36 AM

Put the hood up all the way, straight up. Drain all fluids, including the torque converter, and remove the engine and trans as a unit.

You will need to take out the engine at an angle so sue one of those wscrew cranbk things on your engine hoist. (sorry, I don't know the official name)

engatwork · #6 10-10-2009, 08:01 AM

If you just need to pull the tranny then I sure would not pull the engine/tranny complete.

Anyway, if you do then that sucker is going to have to be pretty close to a 45 degree angle when you come up with it. You will want the car where you can roll it forward/backward a little if need be. Nothing real complicated about pulling it. I typically remove the power steering pump and a/c compressor from the block and leave them hanging in the engine bay.

mbe32094 · #7 10-10-2009, 11:05 AM

I guess I will have to pull the engine with the tranny attached. All the attached components to the engine have been removed. Last thing to unbolts are the thre bolts from the tranny. Thanks Guys.

junqueyardjim · #8 10-10-2009, 06:04 PM

We pulled and replaced a 3.0 liter six in our 86 W124 last year. We pulled it with the transmission. It helps a lot to have a lift with an adjustable two chain bracket on the end of the main chain. That way you can adjust the tilt you need with the screw crank. We left the air compressor off and hanging, radiator has to come out and I think we protected the condensor with thin plywood. We had the front end up on wheel ramps and we had a floor jack under the differential. That gives you the room to get it out of there, but it is a tight squeeze and we had to turn the engine sideways a bit both to get it in and out. Take your time, go slow, and have adequate help on hand.

mbe32094 · #9 10-10-2009, 10:38 PM

With the help of my two buddies we were able to pull out the engine with the tranny attached. It took us longer to pull it out. We want to make it sure we dont damage any parts. Removing the cable attached to the tranny is abit complicated. Somehow I managed to remove them without breaking any connectors. The last screw to be remove on the engine are the engine mount screws. After that I unbolted the tranny support. This will give me access to the three bolts on the differential connected to the tranny. Remove only the bolts that connects the tranny to the rubber plate. Leave the other three bolts on. You need to tap the differential to lossen fron the tranny. Start lifting the engine until u pull it out all the way.
Until next week for putting it back. I'm waiting for some parts to arrive.
I decided to buy a used engine with less than 60000 miles on it. Mine has 203000 miles already. I paid $1317.00 free delivery and no core charge. The engine was pretested and passed compression test. Has one year warranty.
Did I get a good deal on this?

pifcat2 · #10 10-12-2009, 01:03 PM

I pulled and installed a 300E engine w/trans by myself although I highly recommend having help.
A few pointers: Drain all fluids before disconnecting lines. Don't connect the hoist to the engine hooks as they will bend and are bolted to the aluminum head. Run some straps around the engine. The load leveler is helpful but depending on the type, it's crank will come close to the windshield since it needs to be close to the engine. If not, your engine hoist (cherry picker) may not clear the radiator over rider given the drivetrain is removed at ~45 degree angle. You may want to lower the car to the ground after you've unhooked the downpipe and motor mounts to gain more clearance. Go slowly, some connections are missed or easier removed once the engine is lifted.

mbe32094 · #11 10-13-2009, 07:16 PM

Need more help guys.
Now that the engine and transmission are pulled out, my next problem is on how to remove the clutch plate that connects to the engine flywheel. See with arrow picture below.
Could someone please tell me on how to separate this part so I could attach the transmission to the engine?
The second picture is the old engine and the last picture is the replacement.
Thank you in advance.

Hirnbeiss · #12 10-14-2009, 01:26 AM

You're talking about the torque converter, which should just pull off. If you need to get the flexplate off, there are about ten bolts on that, but you need something to counterhold the plate - there is a tool that fits in the gear teeth for that.

engatwork · #13 10-14-2009, 05:32 AM

You will have to turn the engine over to remove the six fasteners holding the torque converter to the flywheel.

mbe32094 · #14 10-14-2009, 10:58 AM

Yes Im talking about the torque converter. Ok I found the access bolts below the engine. Thanks guys

wbain5280 · #15 10-14-2009, 11:16 AM

Put the nuts and/or bolts in separate plastic bags and label the bags. When you reinstall the torque converter, replace the front trans seal, carefully insert the TC into the transmission, make sure the dog for the pump aligns, bolt the engine and trans together and then bolt the TC to the flywheel.