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  #1  
Old 07-30-2009, 12:12 PM
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190E Head Job: Looking for special tool

I am in the middle of a 190E 2.3 head job and couldn't find the chain link rivet tool anywhere in stores around me. Any suggestion?
Here a link to the job so far

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  #2  
Old 07-30-2009, 12:45 PM
LarryBible
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I assume that you mean the timing chain link tool. That tool makes a crimp that is very pretty to look at, but if you're not in the habit of removing the valve cover to admire the beautiful crimp in your timing chain link, here is a very good alternative.

Before putting the lock plate in place, run your finger over it and feel for the side with sharp edges. Put the plate in place with the sharp edge IN. That puts the rounded edge of the holes out where you will peen the ends of the master link. By using the smooth edge, you will have more area and a tapered area for the peening to force the pin end into.

With everything in position, which will require the link to be at the very top of the sprocket, use a body dolly at the rear and the round portion of a ball peen hammer to peen the pin and mushroom it into place. If you don't have a body dolly to back up the master link, hold the head of a large hammer in your hand and use that.

This method works great as long as you keep the plate pushed back while beginning your peening.

Imagine, using a ball peen hammer to PEEN with.
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  #3  
Old 07-30-2009, 05:20 PM
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Is there a rental site for the chain link riveter?
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Old 07-30-2009, 06:38 PM
LarryBible
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So, you don't believe me? I have done several chains with a hammer and dolly and never had ANY problem with them whatsoever. The peening only keeps the plate from falling off. There is no pressure at all on the riveted end.

If you are afraid of my method and there are any old, iron suspension bridges around, you should be afraid to cross them. They are all put together with exactly the same method, albeit on a bigger scale.
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Old 07-30-2009, 07:00 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by LarryBible View Post
So, you don't believe me? I have done several chains with a hammer and dolly and never had ANY problem with them whatsoever. The peening only keeps the plate from falling off. There is no pressure at all on the riveted end.

If you are afraid of my method and there are any old, iron suspension bridges around, you should be afraid to cross them. They are all put together with exactly the same method, albeit on a bigger scale.
I believe you, but I am world class klutz. I have a feeling that I will end up with a bent chain link or a missing tooth on the sprocket.
I am going for a Benz GTG this weekend and then after that I will see if I have grown some kahunas before I tackle this. Any additional suggestions are welcome.
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  #6  
Old 07-30-2009, 08:45 PM
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It will work and is pretty easy.

I had the same problem (replaced chain on 2.3 motor). I followed the 2 hammer approach and the metal spreads easily. My son helped hold the other hammer.

Good luck!
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Old 07-30-2009, 08:48 PM
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I've never had any issues with the two hammer approach.
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Old 07-30-2009, 10:25 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by professor View Post
I am going for a Benz GTG this weekend and then after that I will see if I have grown some kahunas before I tackle this. Any additional suggestions are welcome.

Ehhh? You're going to grow a pair of chiefs? I'd suggest with starting with some cajones.

Most of the crimping tools I've seen still require you to smack them with a hammer to get the peen. Do the double hammer trick ( I prefer the body dolly but then again I have one). Use a small wire tie/zip tie to keep the front chain link tight. Listen to Larry.
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  #9  
Old 08-01-2009, 01:36 AM
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Originally Posted by engatwork View Post
I've never had any issues with the two hammer approach.
Used this method all the time on lift chains for forklifts. Never had one let go on me in all the years I worked in the heavy duty repair industry.

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