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  #16  
Old 08-04-2009, 02:10 PM
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No One does windows anymore..that was the joke..

Everytime I hired a new cleaner service, they would say " We Don't do windows " ....that will be extra $$$...

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  #17  
Old 08-04-2009, 11:15 PM
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So I put the test lamp to 87e and the ground. It lit up with the acc turned on, stayed lit whille engine running, stayed lit during the stall. Not even a flicker. I tested 3 times just to be sure. It seems to have an irradic idle at times. However, I notice that it's taking much longer for the car to stall. It ran for more than 5 minutes between stalling.

Just stalled again. Just a thought, the idle switch looks a bit corroded, would that be suspect given the symptoms? Testing that is simply continuity correct?
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  #18  
Old 08-05-2009, 09:25 AM
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OK
Well, that means the feed output of OVP is not dropping power..


So, I would be looking elsewhere ..like wiring and possible fuel ...might want to check FP anf FP relay the same way..monitor them as it stalls .
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  #19  
Old 08-05-2009, 11:03 AM
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Just a thought, When I removed my distributor cap during my pulley change, I noticed a bit of corrosion on the points. I am about due for a tune up anyways. Could these symptoms be a misfire?

Fuel pump relay has the same 87e pin that I test?
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  #20  
Old 08-05-2009, 11:20 PM
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Hah! Glad I guessed right for once on the idle switch.

Now I'm going double-or-nothing and I'm gonna bet that you have a vacuum leak that is just on the verge of drivable.

Check the hose from the valve cover side to the intake manifold. Check underneath, it likes to crack there. Also check the hoses going to and from your idle air valve, and all vacuum rubber in general.

Good luck!
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  #21  
Old 08-06-2009, 09:54 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by tinypanzer View Post
Hah! Glad I guessed right for once on the idle switch.

Now I'm going double-or-nothing and I'm gonna bet that you have a vacuum leak that is just on the verge of drivable.

Check the hose from the valve cover side to the intake manifold. Check underneath, it likes to crack there. Also check the hoses going to and from your idle air valve, and all vacuum rubber in general.

Good luck!
You were right on the money with that! My linkage was correct, but the little wheel on the idle switch was notched out. It was kinda hard to tell.

The car was still stalling afterward. Idle was MUCH nicer.

Ironically, It has not stalled in 2 days.... I cant get the symptoms to come back again. It has done this once before about a year or two ago, and I cant remember if I fixed something or it went away.

Meanwhile, I am going to remove my vac. lines one by one and inspect. Im also due for a cap and rotor. I will save this thread and post again when my symptoms come back.

Thanks

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