The driver's window went down but won't go back up. I tested the switch by replacing it with a good one, but no luck. The window will engage to go down, but not up. From what I've read, that leads me to think that there may be a broken wire.

I've taken off the inside door panel and the kick panel. The wires seem to go inside the wall on the car side. I can't reach them on the door side because the window is down and in the way. I can't even see the wires on the motor to try and jump it.

Can anyone help me? Any suggestions would be welcome.

Try searching. There should be some info on that. My car is different.

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1998 C230 330,000 miles (currently dead of second failed EIS, yours will fail too, turning you into the dealer's personal human cash machine)
1988 F150 144,000 miles (leaks all the colors of the rainbow)
Previous stars: 1981 Brava 210,000 miles, 1978 128 150,000 miles, 1977 B200 Van 175,000 miles, 1972 Vega (great, if rusty, car), 1972 Celica, 1986.5 Supra

Tried using a good switch and it didn't work, so I assumed a broken wire - I was wrong! The child lock-out button HAS to be connected when you try another switch because it provides the ground. If you swap switches when looking for a window problem, make sure you plug in the lock-out switch too!

Finally, a low cost fix on a MB.

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1988 California version 260E (W124)
Anthracite Grey/Palomino
Owned since new and still going strong and smooth
MBCA member

Past Mercedes-Benz:
1986 190E Baby Benz
1967 230 Inherited from mom when she downsized
1959 220S Introduced me to the joys of keepin' 'em goin'

There are only 10 kinds of people in the world--those who understand binary and those who don't