1993 300ce New Tumbler, Won't Start

[jlostlen]

I just replaced my ignition tumbler... prior to replacement the car was running fine around 1 year ago according to my aunt. When I put it all back together, I reconnected the battery and it was drained so I jumped it, and when I got back in the car to turn it over, The alarm was set off. I heard some sort of Relay clicking under the dash and a red light on the left of my knee panel near my headlight switch blinked repeatedly. The alarm went off eventually, the red light and relay took much longer to stop.

The red light no longer blinks nor do I hear the relay clicking, or alarm. I have tried several more times to turn it over again and It did not start. The ignition will go into position 1, 2 where I get all electrical functions (windows, doors, seats roof, lights on instrument cluster.)

I am wondering if this is an issue with the alarm still being engaged or if I have somehow messed up the ignition when replacing the tumbler assembly...I did have to shake it and beat on it to remove the tumbler... Any suggestions greatly appreciated.

James

[jlostlen]

Just to clarify... when turned over past position 2, the starter does not engage, so the problem is that when I am turning the key, the starter does not crank the engine over.

[Arthur Dalton]

You have a No Starter activation, not a no start condition..
..so, use the search feature and use " X27 "

[jlostlen]

This morning I went to try again, the battery was totally drained. I jumped it, and no alarm sounded but i cannot get the flashing red light and relay clicking to stop. I have locked and unlocked all the doors, Don't know how to get it to un - activate.

[Arthur Dalton]

Check fuse 5

[jlostlen]

I read some on the archives about that, fuse 5 is alive and well.

[Gilly]

IIRC you can just disconnect the ATA module and will fix it all.
I don't "think" that anything needs to be jumped to do this, not 100% sure though.
Gilly

[Arthur Dalton]

Disconnect of ATA module will open circuit for K38 coil at Pin #1 of N26 ATA module and no coil V results in No Start b/c k38 has to be live for Start, dead for interlock. So, that would be the same as bad fuse 'B" coil feed to K38...No Starter activation b/c contacts 30/87 would be OPEN , opening circuit to NSS.
The circuit goes ..IGN sw to k38.. K38 to NSS .. NSS to X27 ..X27 to starter solinoid. That is where we started ..X27..
K38 MUST be jumpered if you disconnect ATA module...and the reason for that is if someone rips out your ATA module , the car will still not start.

[Gilly]

Admittedly I might be thinking of an older 124, where it was just an alarm and not a true "anti-theft" system.
Gilly

[Arthur Dalton]

I think you are right on the earlier models.
I am mostly familiar with the 93/95 vintage ATA ..and that is the schematic I am using as reference for this particular posting...

[jlostlen]

Thank you all who have posted and especially A Dalton, very helpful. Well I have it up and running while bypassing 1 and 3 pins (violet and violet and white) and took it for a spin.

Bad news... Blown head gasket, check engine light and a 2nd to 3rd gear slips before shifting reving the motor up a 1,000 rpms or so before catching the gear. I ran the led test on the diagnostic code and came up with 12, 21, and 26.
According to this helpful diagnostic code readout:
These convert to:

12 Heated oxygen sensor heater circuit open or circuit short
21 Purge switchover valve circuit open or circuit short
26 Upshift delay faulty

I am sadly at a decision now where I am weighing out all the repair that needs to be done and cost verses the value of the car... I don't mind doing the work to repair the head gasket myself but I fear that I may never fix all the problems this car is beginning to show. I know that this year has been a known problem with the wiring harness and suspect that the 2 shorts code 12 and 21 are possibly a result of a bad harness. I will research the cars history a bit more, do some more homework on the forums and post the verdict later on.