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  #1  
Old 09-17-2009, 12:39 AM
Greg
 
Join Date: Dec 2008
Location: San Carlos, California
Posts: 431
Air Fuel mixture question

how do i know if my car is running rich or lean and how do i adjust the mixture if i need to.

the car im concerned with is my cosworth 190

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2006 E320 CDI, 57K bought at 67K "Liesl"
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  #2  
Old 09-17-2009, 08:09 AM
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By using a DDM that can measure duty cycle at diagnostic connector.

Should have 50% on/off ratio measures between pin #3 & ground.
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  #3  
Old 09-17-2009, 08:48 AM
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You are describing a 16 valve 2.3. Not a simple car by design. The adjustment procedure is correct but there are a number of issues involving intake leaks and linkage adjustment and lubrication not to mention the correct valve adjustment. Get the manual concerning this engine, I think it's available via MB on a CD.
Bill
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  #4  
Old 09-17-2009, 09:43 AM
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I'm old school. If it's gas, look at a plug or two. If they're white, it's lean, if they're brown it's rich. You can google search images for how to read plugs.

If it's lean, look for vac leaks.
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  #5  
Old 09-17-2009, 09:55 AM
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Newer engine fuel management systems make the color evaluation to a degree inaccurate. Actually a full load run on a chassis dyno with shutting the engine off while coasting down from speed will give a good indicator but casual driving won't reveal as accurate indication.
Bill
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  #6  
Old 09-17-2009, 10:26 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Bill Adkins View Post
Newer engine fuel management systems make the color evaluation to a degree inaccurate. Actually a full load run on a chassis dyno with shutting the engine off while coasting down from speed will give a good indicator but casual driving won't reveal as accurate indication.
Bill

That's true, but only if the vehicle is operating within acceptable LTFT limits. Once engine management has maxed out it's long term fuel trim one way or another, looking at the plugs will still be a valid indicator, especially if it's an extreme condition.
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  #7  
Old 09-17-2009, 10:29 AM
Greg
 
Join Date: Dec 2008
Location: San Carlos, California
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i read somewhere that you can tell by how the exhaust smells. but that seemed unlikely.

what factors could contribute to a incorrect mixture specifically.
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Current
2006 E320 CDI, 57K bought at 67K "Liesl"
1986 190E 2.3-16, 198K bought at 56K "Brigitta"
1987 300TD (Chuggin Along), 292K "Friedrich"
1995 E320 Wagon, 200K "Louisa"

Past
1987 300SDL, (sold) 125K, bought for 1$ "Kurt"
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  #8  
Old 09-17-2009, 10:46 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by GregoryV022 View Post
i read somewhere that you can tell by how the exhaust smells. but that seemed unlikely.

what factors could contribute to a incorrect mixture specifically.

Vacuum leaks, bad airflow readings, bad O2/lambda readings, plugged exhaust, restricted intake, low fuel pressure, plugged or leaky injector, bad fuel management or ECM, etc... etc...

It's a long list.
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  #9  
Old 09-17-2009, 09:24 PM
Greg
 
Join Date: Dec 2008
Location: San Carlos, California
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Quote:
Originally Posted by dhjenkins View Post
Vacuum leaks, bad airflow readings, bad O2/lambda readings, plugged exhaust, restricted intake, low fuel pressure, plugged or leaky injector, bad fuel management or ECM, etc... etc...

It's a long list.
what would be the most common ones to check first.
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Current
2006 E320 CDI, 57K bought at 67K "Liesl"
1986 190E 2.3-16, 198K bought at 56K "Brigitta"
1987 300TD (Chuggin Along), 292K "Friedrich"
1995 E320 Wagon, 200K "Louisa"

Past
1987 300SDL, (sold) 125K, bought for 1$ "Kurt"
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  #10  
Old 09-18-2009, 10:18 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by GregoryV022 View Post
what would be the most common ones to check first.

Depends on if you're lean or rich...

At your vehicle's age, I'd check for vacuum leaks first (which would cause a lean condition). Take some carb cleaner and spray it around the engine while it's running. If you get a change in RPM, you've got a leak.

You could also get a cheap vacuum gauge (and google how to read it) to check for leaks, plugged exhaust, intake restriction, etc... Shouldn't be more than about $20-$30 at sears. Get a decent one, not an autozone one.

Also check your plugs if for no other reason that to see what the electrodes look like. Fuel management in the 80's wasn't that advanced, so you still have a chance at reading the plugs.
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  #11  
Old 09-18-2009, 10:35 AM
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Location: So Cal, No. Orange county
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Using the carb cleaner around a running engine can have two unpleasant results. First it can migrate in around the air cleaner seals and give a false result causing non required repairs so I made a long snorkle to set on top of the intake housing moving the fresh air source high above the engine. I actually started using a water spray bottle with an electronic stethyscope to listen for the suction noise made when the water hits the leaking intake. It's quite accurate. The second item is the creation of phosgene gas, that happens when burning most spray cleaners into open flame. Dont remember which component in the aerosol causes it but it is really deadly so please be in a well vented area if using this procedure. If you get even a tinge of sting in your nose leave the area quickly.
Bill
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  #12  
Old 09-18-2009, 10:59 AM
Greg
 
Join Date: Dec 2008
Location: San Carlos, California
Posts: 431
well a buddy of mine told me to try this trick.

i took a bottle of water and poured it over each injector while the car was running. when i poured it over the number 3 and 4 injector, the car spluttered and coughed. so i guess that means the injector rings are bad. ill change those asap.

could that also be the cause of my weird idling
__________________
Current
2006 E320 CDI, 57K bought at 67K "Liesl"
1986 190E 2.3-16, 198K bought at 56K "Brigitta"
1987 300TD (Chuggin Along), 292K "Friedrich"
1995 E320 Wagon, 200K "Louisa"

Past
1987 300SDL, (sold) 125K, bought for 1$ "Kurt"
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  #13  
Old 09-18-2009, 11:47 AM
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Location: Great State of Texas
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Quote:
Originally Posted by GregoryV022 View Post
well a buddy of mine told me to try this trick.

i took a bottle of water and poured it over each injector while the car was running. when i poured it over the number 3 and 4 injector, the car spluttered and coughed. so i guess that means the injector rings are bad. ill change those asap.

could that also be the cause of my weird idling
Yup.
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A.S.E Tech A1,A6,A7,A8 & MVAC 609 + EPA 608

Unless stated otherwise, any question I ask is about my greymarket 1985 380SEL.
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  #14  
Old 09-18-2009, 05:41 PM
Greg
 
Join Date: Dec 2008
Location: San Carlos, California
Posts: 431
Quote:
Originally Posted by dhjenkins View Post
Yup.
is that a yes to the idle problem or the fact that they are bad.
__________________
Current
2006 E320 CDI, 57K bought at 67K "Liesl"
1986 190E 2.3-16, 198K bought at 56K "Brigitta"
1987 300TD (Chuggin Along), 292K "Friedrich"
1995 E320 Wagon, 200K "Louisa"

Past
1987 300SDL, (sold) 125K, bought for 1$ "Kurt"
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  #15  
Old 09-18-2009, 10:52 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by GregoryV022 View Post
is that a yes to the idle problem or the fact that they are bad.
both

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