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  #31  
Old 01-30-2010, 12:52 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mespe View Post
The first time removing a steering wheel is a real PITA. you NEED an Impact.
I used a 1/2" drive 10mm hex and a 1/2" breaker bar.

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  #32  
Old 01-30-2010, 01:25 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by junqueyardjim View Post
I have to pull the instrument panel on my W124 to repair or replace the odometer and replace some light bulbs. While pulling the panel out of a junker at the P & P, I thought that the working room was a bit less then on the W123, but I can manage that job on the W123. I was thinking that it might be worthwhile to pull the steering wheel on the W124 to replace or otherwise work on the instrument panel. Am I looking at that right?
The best thing you can do if you decide to remove the steering wheel to access the cluster; is to, using a propane or smaller butane pencil torch heat the large Allen head bolt which secures the steering wheel to the steering shaft. This bolt has an angled tapered underside which interfaces with the wheel and it has a liberal coating of blue thread locker on its large threaded area. Those factors can make it a bear to break free especially the first time it's ever being done! If you heat it first you accomplish two things you expand the bolt ever so slightly which might not help much but it doesn't hurt at all, and once the blue thread lock gets heated to about 125 F it softens and that definitely helps! You only need to heat it enough so that you can’t keep your finger on it because it’s too hot for that, you don’t need to get it red or smoking or anything like that!

I use a 2-3 foot piece of oak flooring wrapped with a rag, laid on the flat between the spokes on the steering wheel and braced on or between my legs as a counter hold, then a good 1/2" 10 mm Allen socket driven by a breaker bar. Things come apart without much difficulty that way but you want a good tool in that Allen bolt so that it doesn't get the chance to round out and strip, it is a royal pain to get that bolt out of there if it does!
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  #33  
Old 01-30-2010, 01:44 PM
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Thanks guys!

Getting good help for that job this morning. Now I am waiting for a warm day off or a nice weekend to get in there and get the job done. Could someone tell me why on my W124 the outside temperature read out is mostly covered in black. It gives the correct temperature as the front digit is legible, but you can only read the second digit if the light hits it just right. It almost looks like a fungus is growing across the inside of the glass. The car had been in inside storage in Ft Wayne, IN for 10 years before I bought it.
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Christianity, if false, is of no importance, and if true, of infinite importance. The only thing it cannot be is moderately important. C.S. Lewis



1983 Mercedes W123 240D 4 Speed 285,000 on the road with a 617 turbo, beautiful butter yellow, license plate # 83 240D INDIANA

2003 Jaguar Type X, AWD. beautiful, good mileage,
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  #34  
Old 01-30-2010, 02:05 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by AlexTheSeal View Post
Huh?

No need to buy the special Mercedes tool or mangle the Torx head with a hex driver---just get one of these.

http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/ctaf/displayitem.taf?Itemnumber=33895
How cute--I thought it was only dummies that called TORX "Star!"

It's a better solution than allen, of course.
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  #35  
Old 01-30-2010, 04:51 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by junqueyardjim View Post
Getting good help for that job this morning. Now I am waiting for a warm day off or a nice weekend to get in there and get the job done. Could someone tell me why on my W124 the outside temperature read out is mostly covered in black. It gives the correct temperature as the front digit is legible, but you can only read the second digit if the light hits it just right. It almost looks like a fungus is growing across the inside of the glass. The car had been in inside storage in Ft Wayne, IN for 10 years before I bought it.
Sure the display has not leaked? Its very common.
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  #36  
Old 01-30-2010, 06:33 PM
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I guess that might be possible

What liquid is in there?
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Junqueyardjim
Christianity, if false, is of no importance, and if true, of infinite importance. The only thing it cannot be is moderately important. C.S. Lewis



1983 Mercedes W123 240D 4 Speed 285,000 on the road with a 617 turbo, beautiful butter yellow, license plate # 83 240D INDIANA

2003 Jaguar Type X, AWD. beautiful, good mileage,
Mom's car, but I won't let her drive it!
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  #37  
Old 01-31-2010, 10:52 AM
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Do I have a telescopic steering column

YES, I have one. Checked the owners manual and it showed where the switch button was located. I found it and it works very well. Now I won't have to pull the steering wheel.
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Junqueyardjim
Christianity, if false, is of no importance, and if true, of infinite importance. The only thing it cannot be is moderately important. C.S. Lewis



1983 Mercedes W123 240D 4 Speed 285,000 on the road with a 617 turbo, beautiful butter yellow, license plate # 83 240D INDIANA

2003 Jaguar Type X, AWD. beautiful, good mileage,
Mom's car, but I won't let her drive it!
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  #38  
Old 02-01-2010, 10:11 AM
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Torx is patented, you can't make and sell a star bit as Torx unless you pay the royalties.

Ever heard of a "cross-recess" bit (Phillips) or Hex (Allen)?

Quote:
Originally Posted by lkchris View Post
How cute--I thought it was only dummies that called TORX "Star!"

It's a better solution than allen, of course.
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  #39  
Old 02-01-2010, 10:14 AM
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The LCD (LIQUID Crystal Display) has gone bad, you need a new one. I have a couple in Michigan if you're not in a big hurry.

Quote:
Originally Posted by junqueyardjim View Post
Could someone tell me why on my W124 the outside temperature read out is mostly covered in black.
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  #40  
Old 06-07-2010, 06:01 PM
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I have a question about Airbags. I went thru the Disarm procedure in Alldata. It'd been disarmed for a few days now. I need to hook up the batt for some troubleshooting and want the airbag to remain disarmed. Can I just leave the airbag connectors dc'd and hook the Batt up? Will that screw up anything that would need to be "reset".
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  #41  
Old 06-08-2010, 07:06 AM
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On a W210 that gives you a SRS light that needs a handheld tester to reset.
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  #42  
Old 06-09-2010, 04:12 PM
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It looks like my only option here is to hook up the airbag and do my electrical troubleshooting hoping I won't trigger the airbag? I need to run the tests on the cruise control amp, actuator, and switch. I doubt I will trigger the airbag. I don't want the SRS light on for sure. I've heard all kinds of horror stories about dealers wanting a lot to turn the light off.

It sounds like if I connect the batt with the airbag connector DC'd, I'll get a SRS light. Is that true?
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  #43  
Old 06-09-2010, 05:20 PM
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I don't know on the 124, don't think so but I'm waiting to hear from the experts.
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  #44  
Old 06-09-2010, 05:34 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by babymog View Post
I don't know on the 124, don't think so but I'm waiting to hear from the experts.
Sounds like my Options are:

1) Leave Airbag DC'd, hook up batt, get SRS light, go to dealer.

2) Hook up SRS connector, Hookup batt, take a chance I won't trigger airbag putzing around with the Cruise Control

Seems like anything much with the electrical system, you are told to disarm the airbags.
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  #45  
Old 06-09-2010, 08:30 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by les_garten View Post
I have a question about Airbags. I went thru the Disarm procedure in Alldata. It'd been disarmed for a few days now. I need to hook up the batt for some troubleshooting and want the airbag to remain disarmed. Can I just leave the airbag connectors dc'd and hook the Batt up? Will that screw up anything that would need to be "reset".
I left the red airbag connector dc'd and drove the car to make sure I had the sterring wheel correctly positioned. The airbag light was on while I was driving. After everything was OK I re-connected the the red connector and the airbag light went off, never to be seen again.

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