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  #1  
Old 11-28-2009, 11:04 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Hirnbeiss View Post
I thought the screws were T-30 torx. Extend teh wheel all the way forward before disconnecting the battery. Minimize any time you are in front of the airbag, and do not lay it face down. ALso, do not reconnect the battery while the bag is out - at least on the W210 this gives an SRS light which can only be reset with an SDS or similar computer.
The FSM claims the screws are Torx, but I have removed them a number of times with 4mm hex key. Good luck finding a Torx bit that will fit without modification on a car that has a non-adjustable steering wheel.
The SRS light on a '95 124 will self extinguish when the airbag(s) are reconnected.
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  #2  
Old 11-29-2009, 01:04 PM
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Originally Posted by Chas H View Post
Good luck finding a Torx bit that will fit without modification on a car that has a non-adjustable steering wheel.
Easy, just order Mercedes special tool 126 589 00 10 00

Torx and inhex are NOT interchangeable.
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  #3  
Old 01-29-2010, 02:28 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Chas H View Post
The FSM claims the screws are Torx, but I have removed them a number of times with 4mm hex key. Good luck finding a Torx bit that will fit without modification on a car that has a non-adjustable steering wheel

Huh?

No need to buy the special Mercedes tool or mangle the Torx head with a hex driver---just get one of these.

http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/ctaf/displayitem.taf?Itemnumber=33895
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  #4  
Old 01-29-2010, 06:37 PM
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Removing airbag

I have done this safely on my 560SL. I suspect the procedure is identical on your 124.

Removing the air bag
is DANGEROUS. If you must do this yourself, do the following steps.

1. Remove negative battery cable. Place or insulate it so it cannot contact the battery.

2. Wait 20 minutes

3. Locate and unplug the large red SRS connector. On my car it is under the passenger side foot rest (front of the floorboard). Remove carpet for access if yours is there too. After carpet is lifted, you will see a removable panel with an SRS warning label on it. Four hold downs.

4. Unscrew the two screws behind the center pad retaining the air bag. They are #30 Torx. They are tight but not too tight. Use a 1/4" socket on your Torx bit for leverage. You will need a long shaft Torx bit.

5. Carefully lift off air bag assembly and unplug the connectors. Place airbag in a safe location CENTER PAD UP.

6. Remove center bolt. It is a flat head 10mm hex. It will be very tight. Use air impact driver.

7. Steering wheel will lift easily off splines. You may want to mark straight ahead position before you do if it is not clearly marjked already.

Good Luck. It is still best left to the professionals.

That's it. Don't skip any steps if you want to be safe no matter what anyone says.

So much for the airbag. Now I guess you will have to fend for yourself with the Windbags.
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  #5  
Old 01-30-2010, 10:35 AM
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Do you pull the steering wheel?

I have to pull the instrument panel on my W124 to repair or replace the odometer and replace some light bulbs. While pulling the panel out of a junker at the P & P, I thought that the working room was a bit less then on the W123, but I can manage that job on the W123. I was thinking that it might be worthwhile to pull the steering wheel on the W124 to replace or otherwise work on the instrument panel. Am I looking at that right?
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1983 Mercedes W123 240D 4 Speed 285,000 on the road with a 617 turbo, beautiful butter yellow, license plate # 83 240D INDIANA

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  #6  
Old 01-30-2010, 11:12 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by junqueyardjim View Post
I have to pull the instrument panel on my W124 to repair or replace the odometer and replace some light bulbs. While pulling the panel out of a junker at the P & P, I thought that the working room was a bit less then on the W123, but I can manage that job on the W123. I was thinking that it might be worthwhile to pull the steering wheel on the W124 to replace or otherwise work on the instrument panel. Am I looking at that right?
If your steering wheel is not adjustable, I think removing the wheel is required to remove the instrument cluster. I changed the outside temperature display recently and had to remove the wheel. It's not a big deal if you follow directions.
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  #7  
Old 01-30-2010, 12:21 PM
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The first time removing a steering wheel is a real PITA. you NEED an Impact.
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  #8  
Old 01-30-2010, 12:52 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mespe View Post
The first time removing a steering wheel is a real PITA. you NEED an Impact.
I used a 1/2" drive 10mm hex and a 1/2" breaker bar.
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  #9  
Old 01-30-2010, 01:25 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by junqueyardjim View Post
I have to pull the instrument panel on my W124 to repair or replace the odometer and replace some light bulbs. While pulling the panel out of a junker at the P & P, I thought that the working room was a bit less then on the W123, but I can manage that job on the W123. I was thinking that it might be worthwhile to pull the steering wheel on the W124 to replace or otherwise work on the instrument panel. Am I looking at that right?
The best thing you can do if you decide to remove the steering wheel to access the cluster; is to, using a propane or smaller butane pencil torch heat the large Allen head bolt which secures the steering wheel to the steering shaft. This bolt has an angled tapered underside which interfaces with the wheel and it has a liberal coating of blue thread locker on its large threaded area. Those factors can make it a bear to break free especially the first time it's ever being done! If you heat it first you accomplish two things you expand the bolt ever so slightly which might not help much but it doesn't hurt at all, and once the blue thread lock gets heated to about 125 F it softens and that definitely helps! You only need to heat it enough so that you can’t keep your finger on it because it’s too hot for that, you don’t need to get it red or smoking or anything like that!

I use a 2-3 foot piece of oak flooring wrapped with a rag, laid on the flat between the spokes on the steering wheel and braced on or between my legs as a counter hold, then a good 1/2" 10 mm Allen socket driven by a breaker bar. Things come apart without much difficulty that way but you want a good tool in that Allen bolt so that it doesn't get the chance to round out and strip, it is a royal pain to get that bolt out of there if it does!
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  #10  
Old 01-30-2010, 01:44 PM
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Thanks guys!

Getting good help for that job this morning. Now I am waiting for a warm day off or a nice weekend to get in there and get the job done. Could someone tell me why on my W124 the outside temperature read out is mostly covered in black. It gives the correct temperature as the front digit is legible, but you can only read the second digit if the light hits it just right. It almost looks like a fungus is growing across the inside of the glass. The car had been in inside storage in Ft Wayne, IN for 10 years before I bought it.
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1983 Mercedes W123 240D 4 Speed 285,000 on the road with a 617 turbo, beautiful butter yellow, license plate # 83 240D INDIANA

2003 Jaguar Type X, AWD. beautiful, good mileage,
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  #11  
Old 01-30-2010, 04:51 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by junqueyardjim View Post
Getting good help for that job this morning. Now I am waiting for a warm day off or a nice weekend to get in there and get the job done. Could someone tell me why on my W124 the outside temperature read out is mostly covered in black. It gives the correct temperature as the front digit is legible, but you can only read the second digit if the light hits it just right. It almost looks like a fungus is growing across the inside of the glass. The car had been in inside storage in Ft Wayne, IN for 10 years before I bought it.
Sure the display has not leaked? Its very common.
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  #12  
Old 02-01-2010, 10:14 AM
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The LCD (LIQUID Crystal Display) has gone bad, you need a new one. I have a couple in Michigan if you're not in a big hurry.

Quote:
Originally Posted by junqueyardjim View Post
Could someone tell me why on my W124 the outside temperature read out is mostly covered in black.
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  #13  
Old 01-30-2010, 02:05 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by AlexTheSeal View Post
Huh?

No need to buy the special Mercedes tool or mangle the Torx head with a hex driver---just get one of these.

http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/ctaf/displayitem.taf?Itemnumber=33895
How cute--I thought it was only dummies that called TORX "Star!"

It's a better solution than allen, of course.
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  #14  
Old 02-01-2010, 10:11 AM
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Torx is patented, you can't make and sell a star bit as Torx unless you pay the royalties.

Ever heard of a "cross-recess" bit (Phillips) or Hex (Allen)?

Quote:
Originally Posted by lkchris View Post
How cute--I thought it was only dummies that called TORX "Star!"

It's a better solution than allen, of course.
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