HELP! 1990 300CE failed Texas emission test - Page 2 - PeachParts Mercedes-Benz Forum

Hit Man X · #16 02-08-2010, 08:44 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Texholdem

Thanks, I am still trying to open up the pipe at the EGR valve to clean. At intake manifold it is very very hard to access, the link says same thing.

What were the designers thinking when putting the egr far back close to the fire wall while in the front there is so much room there, Why can't they put it on the front exhaust manifold? either they wanted to save half a foot of egr pipe or it is their way to make money in maintenance

.

You have to recall the M103 was designed before the emission restrictions became more severe...

Early ones did not have the air pump nor the EGR, hell most did not even have the precats.

Texholdem · #17 02-08-2010, 11:42 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Hit Man X

You have to recall the M103 was designed before the emission restrictions became more severe...

Early ones did not have the air pump nor the EGR, hell most did not even have the precats.

My model year 1990 is when MB put the M104.980 engine in 300CE, I had a 1989 300CE with M103, which I don't remember where its egr is located.

I was trying to remove the EGR valve to test but unable to, it is mounted on the rear exhaust manifold and the is no room to remove the rear nut with not more than 1 inch clearance. I think it can be done only with special tool.
As the picture shows, the wrench when going over the nut is already touching the engine block, no room, not 1 cm to wiggle.

Chas H · #18 02-09-2010, 12:02 AM

You need a 1/4" drive 10mm universal socket. Every Benz mechanic has at least one.

Hit Man X · #19 02-09-2010, 12:07 AM

Ah the 104, I wish that found its way into the W126s and/or a five speed manual.

Anyway, also a socket with a flex head may work too. It is hard to tell from the pics.

Also, if you have a MityVac (which I highly recommend!) pull a vac on the EGR at idle. It should stall the car if it opens.

Nipperiley · #20 02-09-2010, 05:19 PM

I too used the small 1/4 inch drive socket set with a small extension attached to the socket. I soaked the nuts first with penetrating solvent. If you have access to a MitiVac, you can easily check to see if the EGR valve will hold a vacuum (it should). Mine looked terrible, but worked fine nevertheless. I guess you can clean the EGR valve with solvent, while you had it out of the car.

Texholdem · #21 02-09-2010, 08:28 PM

I disconnected the rubber tube at the far end but let it still connected to the EGR valve. I sucked at the tube und could hear something close (a membrane perhaps) and it held my oral vacuum

.

Today I was able to open up the pipe to clean with a speedometer cable. Hope that helps a little. I am waiting for parts to do other overhaul, distributor cap & rotor, O2 sensor, spark plugs and SP wires. After that I gonna retake the state inspection. Knock wood!

Texholdem · #22 02-10-2010, 11:22 PM

Yesterday I was happy to be able to get my lambda A/F ratio to voltages between 5.9V and 7.1V, what translates to 0.56% - 0.47% duty cycle. However the numbers are for idle.

Today I measured at 2500 rpm and got reading under 3V at pin 3 of the X11 connector, which means the engine is running too lean, I tried to make it a bit richer and got the following:

Idle: 6.91V - 7.75V (0.493% - 0.42%) borderline of running rich
2500 rpm 3.02V - 3.86V still too lean

The idle reading should stay within 10% of the 2500 rpm reading, now they are way apart, I cannot bring them closer with lambda adjustment alone.

Idle: rich, 2500 rpm: too lean, that does not make sense. What is wrong? what should I look at?

Please help!

Edit: How to adjust lambda A/F ratio according to Bronzeross

Quote:

Originally Posted by BRONZEROSS

... u need the car at normal operating temp. find ur lambda connector, (shown in the first pic.) its on the driver fender well above the ignition module. find pins 2-3. using ur dmm positive pin in the number 2, and neg in pin 3. set dmm to dc volts. with the engine running watch the voltage, should ocillate from 5.5v to 7.5v. turn the lambda tower screw clockwise to richin, counter to lean. also it doesn't take much when ur turning the screw. after u do that snap the throttle and watch ur readings. also u can tell if u have a bad o2 sensor this way too. if the readings are slow or go open. that means ur o2 sensor is probably bad.

A statement from the adjustment instructions at
BOSCH KE3-JETRONIC MIXTURE ADJUSTMENT

Quote:

Remember that if the oxygen sensor is doing its job and the system is operating closed-loop, the reading will jump around, so you might see readings from 5 V to 7 V and have guess at an average.

My reading oscillates between 5.9V and 7.1V (yesterday before enriching it to 6.9V - 7.75V), so I assume that the oxygen sensor is still OK according to the above.