Does anyone have a flywheel lock tool for rent/purchase? Kindly allow me to rent your engine #119.975 ('94 E420) Flywheel Lock Tool. I am unable to replace my water pump without it. Any advice?

Buy it and then ebay it when you are finished if you don't think you will use it anymore. They are not that expensive and personally I think it is one of the best tools in my tool box.

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Jim

Uhhh... when I checked on the tool it was like $240.

There are ways to make your own from hardware-store parts. It does not catch the flywheel teeth but uses one of the bolts that attaches the spider to the torque converter. You remove the bolt and screw this tool in its place and it catches the trans housing, thus stopping the rotation of the motor. Let me know if you want more information. Some time ago I wrote up how to do it so it's in the forum here. If you search on 'flywheel lock' you'll find it.

The M103/603 style one is cheap, only about $35.

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I'm not a doctor, but I'll have a look.

'85 300SD 245k
'87 300SDL 251k
'90 300SEL 326k

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http://www.peachparts.com/shopforum/showthread.php?t=190442

It worked for me.

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1993 400E, 256,000 miles (totaled)
1994 E420, 200,000+ miles
1995 E420, 201,000 miles

No need for the tool....

Use a high quality socket of the appropriate size, along with an M8 bolt and appropriate washer.

Turn the flywheel until you can see the M8 mounting bolts 6-8 total.

Remove one bolt, and replace with your M8 bolt with washer and socket. Tie it down tight, and go back to your work...your crankshaft wont turn with the socket up against the flywheel housing.....which is very strong (even enough to torque the crankshaft bolt to 300+ foot pounds.....I know this first hand because I refused to get a flywheel locking tool.

Happy wrenching!

I thought this setup would have completely resolved the need for a flywheel lock until I starting thinking about changing the valve seals. With the cams off, how would you stop the crank from rotating when you pressurized the cylinder with regulated air to keep the valve from dropping? Maybe there's another trick for that.

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1993 400E, 256,000 miles (totaled)
1994 E420, 200,000+ miles
1995 E420, 201,000 miles

When you pressurize with air... it the piston is perfecty at TDC- it won't move. This is trial and error. Start to apply air- if it moves stop and re-center.


Michael

With my luck, it wouldn't move until the valve was in position to drop right into the head. Have you actually tried this? It sounds risky.

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1993 400E, 256,000 miles (totaled)
1994 E420, 200,000+ miles
1995 E420, 201,000 miles

It might not be practical for valve seal work, but a way to improvise to just lock the crank for say, removing the crank nut, there's the the old time rope method. You simply feed a length of 1/4" or better rope into a spark plug hole with a piston near bottom then turn the crank until the piston locks against the wad of rope. Pull it out when your done. I've never done it but I heard of it being used. Doesn't seem like it would do nay harm, but I suppose there might be some risk.

That's another handy idea to remember for later. I've also heard that you can modify an old started to act as a crank lock, but the last starter I replaced was worth a $75 core from the dealer and I didn't hang on to it. Hopefully, I'll never have to do the valves on this one, although it would give me a sense of accomplishment to have all 4 cams off the engine and get it back running again.

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1993 400E, 256,000 miles (totaled)
1994 E420, 200,000+ miles
1995 E420, 201,000 miles

Could you give me specifics on what bolt, etc... to get?
I need to tighten the crank bolt on an M119 engine

Check Stretch's Baby Benz thread for his solution.

EDIT: Here it is.

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1982 300SD -- 211k, Texas car, tranny issues ____ 1979 240D 4-speed 234k -- turbo and tuned IP, third world taxi hot rod

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My transmission isn't removed.

Anyone have the flywheel locking tool for sale?
116 589 01 40 00

please let me know ASAP
Thank you

Pelican sells them new for $116 but out of stock at the moment

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