300te Bumpy Ride? SLS

[Primarybody]

It started about 3months ago, the kids kinda think its fun, I need a chiropractor. Somethings wrong in the rear suspension on the wagon, is it possible the tires installed being 65's rather than normal 60's impaired something in the self leveling system?

[fred1948]

Time for new accumulators in the SLS.

[layback40]

X2 with Fred

[Primarybody]

Hard to install? Something a salvage yard would have and what kinda access in a nut shell? Thanks much

[hookedon210s]

Buy the accumulators new. You do not want to waste your time with used parts in this case. You will also need approx. 2-3 liters of suspension fluid and get a new reservoir filter while you are at it. The right side is a pain in the butt. You will skin your knuckles for sure. You need to remove the SLS valve to access the lines to this accumulator. The interior load floor panel immediately to the front of the rear seat back also needs to be removed to access the three nuts that hold each accumulator to the vehicle. Mark

[Chas H]

I moved the right side axle instead of the SLS valve 'cause the fittings were seized in the valve.

[hookedon210s]

I moved the right side axle instead of the SLS valve 'cause the fittings were seized in the valve.

Good idea! True, if you are in a salt laden environment the steel fluid lines can seize in the valve or the fitting can seize to the steel line. Spraying the fittings with aerokroil or another rust penetranting oil a day in advance can help. Once this is done a quick slap on the proper line wrench rather than progressively applying torque will usually break the fitting free. If I suspect problems with rusted fittings I will frequently just go straight to using curved jaw vice grip brand locking pliers on the fitting. If used properly this procedure won't damage the fitting and will result in successfully loosening the fitting without rounding it off. Mark

[Primarybody]

Thanks for the reply,
wow - its a simpler so far job than I thought, yet I did not do anything, I quit before finishing, put the sls bolts back on and tightened the 6 m6's for the accumulators, the reason i stopped, the 10mm hex bolts holding the line to the base of the accumulator, I tried going in with the long end of the allen wrench and its a ballend, then i applied mass pressure to break it, but it wont budge, went to local hardware store and they do not carry the 10mm hex socket that i feel is needed to break the shcs. Sprayed it heavily w/ liquid wrench. So I am happy to see that the nuts are in good condition and will come off w/o grinding yet bummed that my linkage to the sls is seemingly out of alignment, this may not be a big issue though. Worried for sure about the reconnection of the hydal lines to the new accumulators seemingly they are fixed.
Anyways I will post the results of tommorows next attempt

[hookedon210s]

I'm sorry I forgot to warn you about that. When I replaced mine the first time I nearly stripped the allen head of the large banjo bolt on one side. Before proceeding I ordered 2 banjo bolts---one to replace the damaged bolt and the other to be held in reserve for the other side. IIRC obstructions prevent a aligning the allen socket correctly and may require removal or relocation of the instruction. Anyway, one secret to loosening the bolt is to clean the bolt head, insert a high quality 1/2 inch drive 10mm allen socket into the bolt with a suitable extension and strike the extension head firmly several times with an appropriate 2 lb. hand sledge hammer (observing all safety rules concerning eye protection, etc.). Then, using a breaker bar apply high torque to the fitting as instantaneously as possible. A gradual increase in torque will more likely than not result in a damaged bolt head. I have never tried to loosen these banjo bolts with an air impact wrench but I suspect that will also work. Also, don't forget to replace the 4 copper seal rings for these bolts or you will have leaks. Mark

[Chas H]

Originally Posted by hookedon210s

Good idea! True, if you are in a salt laden environment the steel fluid lines can seize in the valve or the fitting can seize to the steel line. Spraying the fittings with aerokroil or another rust penetranting oil a day in advance can help. Once this is done a quick slap on the proper line wrench rather than progressively applying torque will usually break the fitting free. If I suspect problems with rusted fittings I will frequently just go straight to using curved jaw vice grip brand locking pliers on the fitting. If used properly this procedure won't damage the fitting and will result in successfully loosening the fitting without rounding it off. Mark

I use a ratcheting line wrench that completely grips the nut- so well that an extension bar can be used. The PO of my car lived at the shore so there was some salt inspired corrosion. The axle bolts can out easily using an impact wrench.
http://www.sears.com/shc/s/p_10153_12605_00950501000P?vName=Tools&cName=Wrenches,Ratchets&Sockets&sName=All%20Wrench%20Sets&psid=FROOGLE01&sid=IDx20070921x00003a

[hookedon210s]

It's not a problem with removing the axle bolts---its the hex head banjo bolt that connects the steel line to the bottom of the accumulator. Tightened at the factory by German gorillas as some of us used to say at Continental Imports. Mark

[Primarybody]

Hey, thanks for the help, the ride is not bumpy anymore and the kids will actually nap in the car again. It took me 7 hours, seemed to be a much more involved job than I expected before. While I was under there I noticed my differential bushings are worn out. Any thoughts or experiences doing this job? Ill probably post a new thread on this one or search the site again. Once again good call on the prognosis of this one... Cheers and happy motoring.