1993 MB 400E - PeachParts Mercedes-Benz Forum

BioDieseLandon · #1 02-24-2010, 11:37 AM

I am looking at buying a 1993 Mercedes 400E. It has 146,000 miles on it and the deal is asking $4000. I will be trading my 1985 300SD with 346,000 miles. I am just wondering if there is anything in particular I should look for when inspecting the vehicle and if it is a good idea to go with a 400E. Thanks!

lkchris · #2 02-24-2010, 12:05 PM

Look for full service records and especially records of recent repairs, as transmssion and HVAC system work are inevitable and you're of course way better off if it's already been done.

See also http://www.peachparts.com/Wikka/M119OilGuides

88260e · #3 02-24-2010, 04:16 PM

Most important thing to check is engine harness $$$$,to make right 600-1800 just for the harness! Easiest place to check is cam sensors, or temp sensors top front of the motor pull back the black over and see if the bare wire is exposed!

samiam44 · #4 02-24-2010, 04:26 PM

Great cars..

But parts are WAY more expensive than on your old SD. You need a detailed inspection and what's been done (records). Besides what is mentioned, that engine is due for a timing chain and guides. Probably never had oil tubes replaced either. That's a few grand if it hasn't been done.
Leaky PS pump is 6 hrs to remove and replace- so a expensive job. Fan clutch is about $600 ... Many steering/suspension/driveline parts are specific for M119 engine and can easily cost 3-4X more than the M103/104.

That said- love our 94 model

M

BioDieseLandon · #5 02-24-2010, 06:08 PM

Thank you I just purchased it today so my next question is where can I get performance parts? lol

Mercedes Guy · #6 02-24-2010, 06:39 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by samiam44

Besides what is mentioned, that engine is due for a timing chain and guides.
M

You don't simply go by mileage to determine when a timing chain needs to be replaced. You need to pull the valve covers and measure it for stretch and then if it is out of spec you replace it. I know of at least one other member on here who has over 200K on his 119 engine and the chain is still within spec.

I'm not sure if replacement of the chain guides on the 119 is as critical as it is on the 117 engines. If I recall, the 119 has a ratcheting chain tensioner as opposed an oil pressure tensioner on the 117. Therefore, you don't have to worry about the chain slapping against the chain guides on start up with the 119.

emerydc8 · #7 02-24-2010, 07:09 PM

Check to see if the car has ASR. Turn the key on and look for the amber ASR light. For some reason, it seems that the models with ASR have more problems with the ETA. It would be a good thing if your prospective car didn't have this option.

BioDieseLandon · #8 02-24-2010, 07:54 PM

The only real problem I found is the check engine light on from the Air Injection. I am going to have to look into this.

400Eric · #9 02-25-2010, 12:12 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by samiam44

Great cars..

But parts are WAY more expensive than on your old SD. You need a detailed inspection and what's been done (records). Besides what is mentioned, that engine is due for a timing chain and guides. Probably never had oil tubes replaced either. That's a few grand if it hasn't been done.
Leaky PS pump is 6 hrs to remove and replace- so a expensive job. Fan clutch is about $600 ... Many steering/suspension/driveline parts are specific for M119 engine and can easily cost 3-4X more than the M103/104.

That said- love our 94 model

M

It only needs oil tube replacement if it came from the factory with plastic oil tubes. The switchover appears to have occurred around 3/93. Look through the oil fill hole, one of the tubes is visible, dark = plastic, aluminum color = aluminum.

Another bad thing about these cars is you can't run veggie oil or bio-diesel in them.

Regards, Eric

BioDieseLandon · #10 02-25-2010, 02:17 AM

Thank you that is the valuable information I really look for.

400Eric · #11 02-25-2010, 04:48 AM

I am trying to establish exactly when the switch to plastic oil tubes occurred, could you please post your car's build date (visible on the driver door striker post) and whether it has the plastic or metal oil tubes?

Another thing, what the gentleman said about wire harness issues is so true and you can't believe any codes you get unless you know for sure your harness is good. I get that smog pump code all the time but it's because my harness is bad, not because of the smog pump having an issue. I also get other erratic codes from time to time. I actually have the replacement harness, I just can't afford to have the car in downtime while I do the repair right now. Folks will tell you it doesn't take that long to replace, but it seems that things don't ever work out like they are supposed to. I don't want to start this task until I can afford to have the car down for a few days at least.

Performance aftermarket support: That's a good one! You are gonna have to do it the old fashioned way son. Start with this thread, read it all the way through and all it's links: http://www.500ecstasy.com/forums/showthread.php?t=5998 . The OP has already done most of the heavy lifting for you so it's not too bad.

Regards, Eric

BioDieseLandon · #12 02-25-2010, 11:18 AM

Is the wiring harness very difficult for DIY? I have quite a bit of experience with wiring and mechanical. However, I dont have a very big garage and not a whole lot of tools. Are any special tools required?

emerydc8 · #13 02-25-2010, 06:13 PM

All you need is an Allen wrench and a screwdriver. The hardest part is getting the lever type plug through the hole in the firewall. I decided it was easier to run the individual wires through the hole from the back. It took less than an hour. Lay the new one out over the old one. It's really easy. The injector wires are numbered.

BioDieseLandon · #14 02-25-2010, 10:20 PM

I figure that will save me at least 1000 bucks if i do it myself

emerydc8 · #15 02-25-2010, 10:33 PM

Just be careful not to disturb the ETA cable too much if it hasn't been replaced. The inside of the ETA cable has the same bad insulation as the wiring harness. If I recall, after I replaced my wiring harness on my 1993 400E, I was having an intermittent cruise control problem. I took the air filter housing off and just happened to bump the ETA cable with the ignition switch on and I could hear the ETA motor operating when I moved the cable to a certain position. After doing this, my cruise control began to work again, but I never replaced the ETA cable.

Now that you know about it, you will probably be better off than if you had someone else do the job.