I am seeing small bubbles and a little fluid right under the cap neck of my 190. I dried it off and looked at it when it was hot and running and it looks like it is coming up from where the neck meets the tank. I did not see any fluid or bubbles coming from the cap (it's only a few months old IIRC).

Any one have any recommendations for glue? I have some LB weld but can't tell if it will deal with the heat/pressure and fluid.

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2014 C250 21,XXX my new DD ** 2013 GLK 350 18,000 Wife's new DD**

- With out god, life is everything.
- God is an ever receding pocket of scientific ignorance that's getting smaller and smaller as time moves on..." Neil DeGrasse Tyson
- You can pray for me, I'll think for you.
- When you understand why you dismiss all the other possible gods, you will understand why I dismiss yours.

davidmash:

I've use JB*Weld in a hot water/high flow situation with excellent results. The only thing I'd be very careful of is being sure that the area is VERY CLEAN and I'd use a small jewlers' file to rough up the area where I'd be putting the JB*Weld on.

Remove the cap and drain just enough fluid from the neck area to provide a clean surface...then I'd clean the area up with DENATURED ALCOHOL...you should be able to get that stuff at any hardware store. Don't use rubbing alcohol...it contains oils that will screw up your repair job.

Follow the directions on the JB*Weld package and paint the stuff on in thin layers 'til it doesn't want to "flow" anymore...then you have the right consistency.

Leave it alone for 24 hours...seriously...the curing time is more important than you'd believe.

Then after all is said and done, order a new radiator and drive around carefully 'til it arrives...once that neck area starts to leak...you're going to be chasing that rabbit for a long time, or shorter if it finally breaks...which it will.

My radiator didn't break at the neck...it popped a seam on the top...couldn't stop it to save my life. Radiator and installation was about $400 ONCE they got the right one shipped (twice!!!), and about $18.00 for the anti-freeze. Some places have ... well ... let's just say the kid must have had his shoes on and pants zipped 'cause he never could count any higher than 10 when he needed to be able to handle 21...if you know what I mean...

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M. G. Burg
'10 - Dakota SXT - Daily Ride / ≈ 172.5K
.'76 - 450SLC - 107.024.12 / < .89.20 K
..'77 - 280E - 123.033.12 / > 128.20 K
...'67 - El Camino - 283ci / > 207.00 K
....'75 - Yamaha - 650XS / < 21.00 K
.....'87 - G20 Sportvan / > 206.00 K
......'85 - 4WINNS 160 I.O. / 140hp
.......'74 - Honda CT70 / Real 125
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“I didn’t really say everything I said.”
. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . ~ Yogi Berra ~

Get a new bottle. They really spruce up the engine bay. And they are ~$30.

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mgburg

It's the over flow not the radiator it's self but thanks for the info on JB weld.

I just looked at it it closer after the engine cooled down and I realized that the neck is metal and the overflow is plastic.

I am going to call around and see how much a new on is. Given the crevices n the thing, I do not have a lot of confidence in a good fix.

__________________
Sent from an agnostic abacus

2014 C250 21,XXX my new DD ** 2013 GLK 350 18,000 Wife's new DD**

- With out god, life is everything.
- God is an ever receding pocket of scientific ignorance that's getting smaller and smaller as time moves on..." Neil DeGrasse Tyson
- You can pray for me, I'll think for you.
- When you understand why you dismiss all the other possible gods, you will understand why I dismiss yours.

I have tried welding up overflow bottles via different methods.
Never been successful the coolant system pressure eventually worms its way through.

Coolant reservoirs are cheap. A new one will give you peace of mind.