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Old 08-24-2010, 07:49 PM
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Distributor Rotor Spring

MB420 SEL: Recently worked to replace the distributor cap and rotor. While doing cleaning and found the distributor spring has only one inside the rotor. Please see the attached picture. Can anyone let me know if it is supposed to be only one spring or missed one? Where can I get it? I can't tell if it was lost in the last service. Thanks. WiL

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Old 08-25-2010, 03:44 AM
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If I remember correctly, my 500SEC only had one spring there as well.

I think it was something about the two pendulums being tied together by the linkage between them, but I'm not sure at the moment. It's been a couple of years since I was in there doing the engine swap and all the associated digging about on the internet for it.

I remember that it was a porsche site that had the good parts break down diagrams of the bosch distributors, though...
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Old 08-25-2010, 08:18 AM
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Designed that way!

Has nothing to do with timing.

Allows the rotor to move forwards as the ignition timing increases so that the ignition won't crossfire.
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Old 08-25-2010, 03:00 PM
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Thanks, Guys. Your information helps a lot. Sorry, I am still learning how to use this forum. Maybe, I shouldn't have to start a thread. Really thanks for your responses.

With your response, I guess my real problem is not the spring.
My MB86, 420SEL is misfiring. I replaced Rotor, Distributor cap and the problem is still there. I plan to replace the cables and spark plugs (replace with titanium). But, I would like to know if there is way for me to run a diagnostic to pin point the problem whether if it is electric or fuel injector. Thanks, WiL
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Old 08-26-2010, 04:17 AM
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First off, when it comes to spark plugs, I wouldn't get anything fancy for them, as they apparently have some weird behavior if you do, to the point of possibly accelerating distributor cap failure.

That being said, you can check for plug wire insulation break down as simply as misting them with water from a spray bottle while the engine is running. If you do this at night, you'll see arc paths from the wires to the engine wherever the insulation has broken down, if at all.

Depending on what you're describing as misfiring, it could be plugs, wires, vacuum leaks, or fouled injectors.
I know on my car, the injectors are the last point left to play with, as I've been in after the full ignition system, and the vacuum seals throughout when the engine was replaced. It shows as an occasional stumble, and various hot restart faults.

There was mention of using water spray to help find vacuum leaks as well, a while back. I'm not absolutely sure on it, but I seem to remember that the idle would slow when the water was sprayed in the location that the extra air was being sucked in, but it's been a while since I read that one. (It also seemed to be a safer route than the ether testing method, which was supposed to result in an increase in rpm when the leak was found.)

I hope this gives you something to think about, and best of luck!

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