94 e320 won't start/crank and wire gauge questions? - PeachParts Mercedes-Benz Forum

dmooney · #1 08-28-2010, 04:59 PM

I've poured over the forum and done most of the trouble shooting to determine why my wife's wagon won't crank. One day it was good, it rained and I went to move the car and nothing.

The starter doesn't crank when I turn the key. I tried the x27 jump test but wondered if I am doing it wrong so I just pulled the starter out and had it tested at two different auto shops, it checks out okay.

Doing the x27 test does the key need to be in the ignition? I got some small movement out of the starter once but now I just think the wire running down to the solenoid is compromised so I need to replace it.

The three wires that come down from the x27 to the solenoid, oil and oil (tranny?) are totally damaged and I would like to replace them but can't figure out the gauges. There is the white violet (solenoid), brown and violet (tranny), and brown and green (oil). I guess I can measure the width to figure out the gauges but wondered if anyone here might know the gauges of these wires. of course the dealership when I called them to ask if I could buy those three wires on their own and gave them the colors they told me to buy a new wiring harness.

I'm going to start with the three wires from the x27 and once I replace them move on to the nss, k38, ignition switch, etc.

I replaced the battery.

I changed out all the fuses.

I did the nss test (neutral moving shifter while turning the key). Could the nss just fail all of a sudden? how do I remove it without damaging components? It seems a bit precarious.

To test the k38 I need to pull the dash? There's no way to test this with a multimeter?

There is an nss relay behind the dash as well?

Like I said I've poured over the threads but I find myself getting a bit confused...

any help is appreciated.

lafooy · #2 08-28-2010, 07:07 PM

I unfortunately can't answer all the questions, but i'll try to help the best I can ... I have had to start my 94 e320 with the x27 trick (if that is the connector close to the brake booster) the key has to be turned in the ignition first (either acc position or on position, can't remember) and then put 12 v to the center of the x27 connector ... i have also had the nss go out without warning .... i had to bypass the nss with a connector above the gas pedal until my new nss arrived ... if you need the bypass instructions I'll try to find that post, but I know i saw it on this site

latief · #3 08-28-2010, 07:44 PM

this should cover the k38 info for you...

see my thread below,

http://www.peachparts.com/shopforum/showthread.php?t=269799&highlight=disable+alarm

Chas H · #4 08-28-2010, 07:49 PM

Since you have a '94, it's possible the wire harness to the starter has disintegrated.

dmooney · #5 08-28-2010, 09:25 PM

Wrapped the three wires with electrical tape and gave it a shot, it worked. Been working on this thing all week so it was nice to have resolution toa problem however fleeting....

Thanks for the help of the board archives, this place is a wonderful resource. Thanks all.

dmooney · #6 08-28-2010, 09:26 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Chas H

Since you have a '94, it's possible the wire harness to the starter has disintegrated.

The wire harness had already been done but not those three wires from the x27.

Chas H · #7 08-28-2010, 10:16 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by dmooney

The wire harness had already been done but not those three wires from the x27.

I hear ya. The engine wire harness does not include wires running to the starter, or the electronicaly controlled throttle. I've got a '95 E320 wagon.

pifcat2 · #8 08-29-2010, 12:20 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by dmooney

I've poured over the forum and done most of the trouble shooting to determine why my wife's wagon won't crank. One day it was good, it rained and I went to move the car and nothing.

The starter doesn't crank when I turn the key. I tried the x27 jump test but wondered if I am doing it wrong so I just pulled the starter out and had it tested at two different auto shops, it checks out okay.

Doing the x27 test does the key need to be in the ignition? I got some small movement out of the starter once but now I just think the wire running down to the solenoid is compromised so I need to replace it.

The three wires that come down from the x27 to the solenoid, oil and oil (tranny?) are totally damaged and I would like to replace them but can't figure out the gauges. There is the white violet (solenoid), brown and violet (tranny), and brown and green (oil). I guess I can measure the width to figure out the gauges but wondered if anyone here might know the gauges of these wires. of course the dealership when I called them to ask if I could buy those three wires on their own and gave them the colors they told me to buy a new wiring harness.

I'm going to start with the three wires from the x27 and once I replace them move on to the nss, k38, ignition switch, etc.

I replaced the battery.

I changed out all the fuses.

I did the nss test (neutral moving shifter while turning the key). Could the nss just fail all of a sudden? how do I remove it without damaging components? It seems a bit precarious.

To test the k38 I need to pull the dash? There's no way to test this with a multimeter?

There is an nss relay behind the dash as well?

Like I said I've poured over the threads but I find myself getting a bit confused...

any help is appreciated.

I just went through this, see my thread.

Basically the x27 test is what we used to call "hot wiring" the starter. It separates the circuit "below" (the starter, wiring, battery) and "above" #5 fuse, K38 alarm, NSS, and ignition switch. If the x27 worked w/o key it indicates the problem "above" and vice versa...