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#1
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My Project PLEASE MAKE COMMENTS
After posting all kinds of threads on different parts I will sum it up.
1985 500 SEL 124,00 miles. Engine ran great and trans shifted well. I wll keep this vehicle and pass it on to my sons as this was my sisters who died from pancreatic cancer a few years ago. I want this mercedes restored to last. The car has been sitting for 2 years as it had a very bad trans leak. Before this it sat(garaged) for 2 years. All rubber was dry rotted. I have: Completely rebuilt front suspension( not installed yet), brakes, steering gear box (and yes I lost my balls) and have decided now since I have removed the transmission and it is disassembled (722.3) I will pull the engine today (why not there is nothing but a few connections holding it in and will be easier on engine stand. OBW all hose and any rubber has been replaced along with shocks and new brake lines. Timing chain, guide, pins and gaskets will be replaced with tensioner and cam oilers. All injector, and required holders /seal will be replaced, distributer cap/rotor/wire/plugs also. Water pump and thermostat are coroded from sitting and using the green antifreeze and will replace radiator and use the Zerox G-05. The cooling mono valve/hoses etc have been replaced. driveline flex discs and center support also. The transmission looks very good except for the rear thrust washer was completely shot. Reverse clutches almost gone. However I am rebuilding all trans with master rebuild less steels and probably use the same covertor(flushed) as the trans was so clean. Any ideas on flushing the engine well when it is on a stand. Also would you replace the reaction vales B1 and B2. Yes K1 spring kit. ANY AND ALL SUGGESTION WHILE THE TRANS AND ENGINE ARE OUT??? PLEASE I will attach photos soon! Thanks and as always God Bless John1 Last edited by John1; 10-16-2010 at 11:08 AM. Reason: spelling |
#2
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Rear main seal and trans front pump seals and gaskets would be a no-brainer. Also I think there are frost plugs in the rear of the engine that would be easy to do. New oil pump and oil pump drive chain also. Oh and chain tensioner of course (edit: oh you said that)
I'd worry about the flushing after it's running again. Just use the MB flushing fluid through it, drain and flush again with straight water, then fill it. WAY easier to do with it running. Inspect the front sway bar closely, you might consider just doing it since it'll be pretty easy to do now. Check the rear anti-squat-related bearings too (the ones that connect the rear caliper mounts to the rear hub). Gilly
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Click here to see a photo album of my '62 Sprite Project Moneypit (Now Sold) |
#3
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Yes:
Check every nook and cranny of the unibody for rust. And, now's the time to do any and ALL bushing replacements.
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'06 E320 CDI '17 Corvette Stingray Vert |
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