W126 560 SEL engine mounts - replace - PeachParts Mercedes-Benz Forum

LandYaghtLover · #1 11-01-2010, 11:27 PM

Well I searched, but did not come up with much other than the engine does not have to be listed much to replace them. But I also read its an allan-type bolt that holds them in.

So anyone know the size? And any quick tips? Seems pretty straight forward, but once I start I dont want to have to run off to get anything.

JamesDean · #2 11-01-2010, 11:32 PM

Yes Alan type

M6 on the mounts to engine frame
M8 on the mounts to engine arms.

Seems straight forward however thats all relative,

Accessing the M6's are not the easiest of all tasks, do able though.
Accessing the M8 is easy, right through cross member.

Spray some Liquid Wrench / Kroil to help the M6's...

You can get the outboard bolts from the top.
The Inboard bolts are more difficult, passenger side moreso than driver.

Take your time, don't strip the heads on the M6s...Its not a horrible job, just a pain in the arse.

Also, when jacking up the motor, be careful of the rear coolant hose that goes/comes from the heater core. If you lift it up significantly, you might damage it and have the hose burst off when the system becomes pressurized..don't ask how i know this.

LandYaghtLover · #3 11-01-2010, 11:44 PM

Thanks much! Will be doing these this weekend.

JamesDean · #4 11-01-2010, 11:45 PM

I hope you have better like than we did on the 560SEL.

Stripped out the passenger inboard board. Car is currently at the shop getting it fixed.

Old mounts were snapped clean in half!

Ferdman · #5 11-02-2010, 05:02 AM

Have never worked on the V8 engines, but removing the engine brackets (arms) greatly simplifies engine mount replacement on the I6 engines. After removing the mount to cross member bolts, raise the engine, then remove the engine bracket bolts and ease out the engine mount/bracket assembly. Replace the engine mount and reinstall the engine mount/bracket assembly ... repeat on the other side.

hookedon210s · #6 11-03-2010, 04:07 PM

No need to remove the engine arms on the V8. The easiest way to access the difficult 6mm allen headed bolts is to remove a 1 inch piece from a 6mm allen wrench and use a 6mm combination wrench on said 6mm piece to loosen the bolt from underneath. The center bolts should be removed from mounts first, the fan shroud clips removed so the shroud can lift with and engine and the engine jacked to its limit. Make sure the power steering HP hose won't be stretched/kinked too. VERY IMPORTANT---always clean the grease and crud out of the bolt heads before trying to loosen them. Otherwise you will strip the bolt heads which will result in much consternation and swearing. Mark

cherry_560SEL · #7 11-04-2010, 07:17 AM

Interesting post....I don't think I have a need to replace my engine mounts just yet, but I do notice a little shake during idle, so this could be a future project. Any pics on this job would be great. LEt us know how it goes

LandYaghtLover · #8 11-10-2010, 09:21 PM

Well I FINALLY got the mounts in. Been sitting on em with little time to install. But with the nice weather today, I took the time to get them done.

Remove both 8mm bolts first. Very easy to get to since there is an opening in the cross member. Once these are off, get the engine lifted up. Remove the fan shroud clips. They just pull up. Then I placed some soft wood between the oil pan and a jack. Slowly lift things up. You just want to make some room for a socket wrench and an alan socket piece.

The passenger side was easiest by far. Both the 6mm bolts came out with room to work.

The driver side was a pain. I had to loosen the mount bracket on the engine. Just did three bolts and tilted it toward the front (left front lower in place). Then I could get the inboard 6mm bolt out. After that I had to turn the mount in order to make room for the socket wrench to move. Installation was not easy since to tighten that outboard bolt it had to be in proper position.

It helps to remove the small nuts on the engine shock absorbers. I cleaned them up and washed the bushings while I had them off. Looks like they are very easy to replace. With them disconnected it makes it a little easier to life the engine up. But they do not get in the way at all.

Both of mine were split. Originally I thought of buying just one. I had wrongly assumed that just the driver side would be broke. As is typical with most V8s since its the side that gets pulled up. But I am glad I bought two. They were inexpensive and both looked like crap. I think the only thing keep the engine in check were the shock absorbers.

Total work time was about 3 hours. Mostly because I was putzing around on other things while under there.