The silver bead was on both sides of the gasket, but it doesn't look like the outer circumference of the gasket ever saw any hydraulic fluid anyway.

I didn't have any Mercedes power steering fluid, so I used Ford Type F transmission fluid to refill the reservoir. Will this hurt the system? I noticed that the steering feels heavier now, but when I did the reservoir hose I also replaced the steering damper/strut which was totally shot. I don't know if the increased heaviness is the result of the new damper or the Type F fluid I used until I can make it to the dealer for the correct fluid.

Ahhh, the old standby the F-bomb, so that's why it was so hard, I never resorted to that!

I never tried different fluids since I was in a dealer setting, we had the right stuff. My impression by reading the fluid lists was that if you went out and bought the stuff they sell as actual power steering fluid that this would work. SOME older models they said ATF was OK, I got the impression that Dexron/Mercon was recommended, but the later models they wanted power steering fluid in it.

Thanks. I'm going to the dealer today to get a quart of the good stuff.

NEW LEAK AHHHHHHHHHHH, so my power steering is leaking again now from an unkown area ???? can't see where it is coming from!!!!!!!!

I hate when that happens. Did you reseal the radial shaft already?

Great photos as always, Emery... good links in post #5 as well. A few comments:

1) The OE/dealer gasket costs a fortune, p/n 129-466-01-80, current MSRP is $32.50, which is ridiculous. The only difference is that the OE/dealer gasket has a thin silicone bead silk-screened on both sides of the gasket, while the aftermarket gasket does not. But for literally 1/10 the cost, the $3 aftermarket gasket works fine - I've used them a few times with no problems.

2) The short hose is 15mm ID, p/n 006-997-09-82, current MSRP is $59 per meter, also ridiculous. It's available via aftermarket sources for ~$20 per meter. I shelled out the twenty bucks and now have a lifetime supply.

3) I don't know where the idea started that Type F ATF is correct for the p/s system, it's Dexron that is an alternative fluid. I only use the OE fluid though, p/n Q-146-0001, shown below... it's less than $8 per quart MSRP at the dealer.

4) Remove the p/s pump pulley and check the area at the bottom of the pump front shaft seal, if it's dry on top but wet with fluid at the bottom, the seal is leaking. If the whole thing is wet from the hose leaking, clean the entire pump bone dry so you can tell later on if the pump is leaking or not.

5) The other leak sources (besides the reservoir bowl gasket, short hose, and pump) are the two low-pressure rubber hoses and the gear box itself. The curved hose is easier to replace. The straight hose is a RPITA to replace. The steering gearbox tends to leak from the output (pitman arm) shaft seal; this is easy to see, and the seals can be replaced with the box still in the car, but it's messy. Do all of the above and you'll have a dry PS system with no leaks for years to come. BT, DT on both my 500's.

6) While the p/s reservoir/bowl is removed, also check the cam advance solenoids... these often leak, and you have to remove the p/s reservoir to R&R the solenoid. Might as well only do the job once instead of twice. If there is ANY liquid oil at the base of the solenoid, it's leaking. Photos are at this link.


http://www.w124performance.com/image..._fluid_OE1.jpg

:chinese2:

Good information. When I replaced the front cam seals on my 400E, I used that orange MB sealant and I remember it was $55 per tube at the time. I will look for the Locktite equivalent just to have some around. I also used it on the head bolts of a 454 and never had a problem with leaks.