think300E, strongly recommend that you remove the distributor cap and inspect the condition of the terminals before doing any other work. Scrape away any thick deposits on the terminals, or replace the distributor cap ... same for the distributor rotor. Buy a new large O-ring for inside the distibutor cap since over time it gets dry/brittle.

Distributor cap screws are 5mm and the rotor are 3mm. Removal is straightforward with the most difficult part being the removal of the spark plug wires from the cap. Each terminal on the cap is numbered for the corresponding cylinder (1 thru 6, front to back).

The black plastic cover has a tab on either side that snaps into place to secure the cover. Gently pull the tab out on one side and the cover should release and lift off.

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Fred Hoelzle

Thanks Ferdman,

The new wireset and new sparkplugs did make a difference, did the work on Saturday, and Sunday the car started right up.

I didn't check the distributor cap because I didn't have the time nor the correct size tools to remove those screws.

However, I have ordered a new distributor cap / rotor (to arrive on Wed) and will get a new O-ring from the dealer, then just replace them, once I get the correct allen keys.

I cannot locate all of my receipts (I moved about a year ago - I am sure I will eventually find them), the only receipt I have located that shows dist/rotor replacement was more than 30k miles (thinking that maybe it has not replaced in a while, I will just do it).


Question: how do you measure torque for the rotor screws, as well as the dust cover screws? What tool can I use? I have a very large torque tool I use for the sparkplugs but I dont think I have room between the fan/radiator and the screws.

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89 300E - 240k +

think300E, for small screws I snug them up being careful not to overtighten them. While I use a torque wrench for lug bolts and other critical bolts I do screws by feel based on years of DIY experience.

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Fred Hoelzle