Yeh there was signs of deposits on the cap too, but it wasn't too bad. I'll file it smooth and replace it next time since moneys a little tight right now. Cheap head gasket swap!

....but on that note...head is off. Enough for today. Tomorrow I will clean it up a little better and ensure the head is flat. Couldn't tell from the old gasket anything hard evidence of the leak.
As you can tell, head can be successfully pulled without touching any accessories, and you don't even need to remove the cam sprocket either, just remove the guide pin and push it back a little. No need to realign anything at all!

__________________
2016 Monsoon Gray Audi Allroad - 21k
2008 Black Mercedes E350 4Matic Sport - 131k
2014 Jeep Wranger Unlimited Sahara - 62k
2003 Gray Mercedes ML350 - 122k

Nice job. Regarding the cam sprocket, that's the way I did mine. I used cable ties through the bolt holes of the sprocket and around the chain at about 10:00 and 3:00, Then, under the cam gear, I put a cable tie around the chain tensioner guide & chain and the opposing chain. That kept the chain taunt and from slipping off the crank gear.
I have to mention, in your photo, it doesn't look like there's anything keeping your chain from falling down enough to maybe drop off the teeth of the crank gear? You don't want that to happen or you'll have to time it up from scratch.
Were you able to get a clear view of the timing marks with the belt and all the accessories still fitted? In the photo it looks like the crank is not at TDC (at least not on cylinder 1). Not that it has to be, but if any thing goes awry it's nice to know exactly where it was lined up at when you started
Also, was there any oil in your coolant tank yet, or just the external leak?

I marked the chain and sprocket with a sharpie, so in the unlikely even it does happen to move, I won't be lost

No oil in coolant, just the external leak. Its a PIA, but hopefully by tomorrow I'll have it back together and I will no longer be dumping oil all over.

Since I am doing nothing but the head gasket, it has gone much faster than last time...Not having to mess with fan clutches and tensioners saves a lot of time.

What are your thoughts on using something like Permatex Copper gasket sealant/adhesive on the new one?
http://www.permatex.com/products/Automotive/automotive_gasketing/gasket_sealants/auto_Permatex_Copper_Spray-A-Gasket_Hi-Temp_Adhesive_Sealant.htm

Also, it seems to have a lot of carbon deposit considering I cleaned it 100% last time 9k miles ago....Does that point to showing I am running too rich or is it normal to see? (my mpg is ok, but I believe it should be higher. Avg 16mpg, long drives around 19/20.

__________________
2016 Monsoon Gray Audi Allroad - 21k
2008 Black Mercedes E350 4Matic Sport - 131k
2014 Jeep Wranger Unlimited Sahara - 62k
2003 Gray Mercedes ML350 - 122k

I would hit it with hylomar, that's what I'm going to do on the next head gasket change.

It does look like a bit of carbon for just 9K, but it's kind of hard to judge. A lot depends on what kind of driving you do, kind of gas, compression etc. It's not terrible looking, but I think your plugs would be a better tell to judge how it's burning. Your milage sounds slightly on the low side (my 91 300E 2.6 gets about 18 around town/ 25-27 highway).
Personally, I wouldn't use any gasket enhancing materials unless I had good expert advise (which I can't give). When I was able to talk to that gasket designer from Reinz the two things I was seeking was info on the modification (which he couldn't give me) and advise on whether I could use a gasket silicone to repair the scrape on the gasket I had damaged. The damage was on the red silicone bead, on the top/outside edge around the last oil drain hole. His response was, that because of the non critical place where the scrape was, and that there was little pressure at that place, and that the scraped spot was very small, he saw no problem repairing it with a similar [high temp] silicone. Even with that, he advised me to merely fill in the missing material and not to build it up higher than the original bead. I used the black M Benz silicone as used for the front timing cover.

I may have discovered something....

On the manual for the Reinz gasket, it specifies following the manufacturers torque sequence, BUT use 70nm followed by 90deg + 90deg for the head bolts.

MB specifies 55nm for the head bolts. Maybe that is the reason for the leaks after all?
Any thoughts?

Everything is back together minus torquing the bolts. I realized the bolts stripped because I was using torx 6 point instead of the 12 "triple square" type, so I managed to find one at my local Kragen. That should ensure no issues. I also picked up a Torque angle gauge to ensure I get 90deg dead on Taking a break tomorrow for xmas day and will finish up sunday.

__________________
2016 Monsoon Gray Audi Allroad - 21k
2008 Black Mercedes E350 4Matic Sport - 131k
2014 Jeep Wranger Unlimited Sahara - 62k
2003 Gray Mercedes ML350 - 122k

Decided to go with the 70nm the victor-reinz specs state.

Torqued down! block flush and oil change and the car starts up

__________________
2016 Monsoon Gray Audi Allroad - 21k
2008 Black Mercedes E350 4Matic Sport - 131k
2014 Jeep Wranger Unlimited Sahara - 62k
2003 Gray Mercedes ML350 - 122k

Crap man, I wish I would have read this when you first posted. I have a spare M103 head in my garage, granted it is the second design with the AIR injection and stuff, it should have still helped.

103s rev pretty high usually, so the ign parts do not last that long. Same with accessories and the belt.

So is the V-R gasket to the one to go with? I am about to jump into this job on my 300SEL here after the first of the year.

__________________
I'm not a doctor, but I'll have a look.

'85 300SD 245k
'87 300SDL 251k
'90 300SEL 326k

Six others from BMW, GM, and Ford.

Liberty will not descend to a people; a people must raise themselves to liberty.[/IMG]

Well I called the dealer and they wanted $170 for the OE gasket set while VR is $55 (make SURE you get the dark version!!). I just couldn't justify the price. I also just believe I got a bad set before. Possibly the torque difference in the manual vs FSM too. We'll see I guess!

__________________
2016 Monsoon Gray Audi Allroad - 21k
2008 Black Mercedes E350 4Matic Sport - 131k
2014 Jeep Wranger Unlimited Sahara - 62k
2003 Gray Mercedes ML350 - 122k

Wow, quick job, nice!
I would think the leak might not have had much to do with the 55Nm initial torque vs the 70Nm because of the design of the stretch bolt system. The two 90° turns take the bolts beyond the realm of constriction by torque and into a zone of stretch or yield that evens out the grip among the 14 bolts. Since the object is to reach that point where the bolts are no longer really tightening, and merely just yielding, it probably isn't critical that proceeding turns are exactly 90° either, only that the bolts are clearly in the zone of yielding.
That being said, since the initial torque is to seat the gasket and [along with the torque sequence] spread it properly, I would tend toward what you did and follow the manufacturer's torque specs which are likely recommended as per the gasket's design and [new?] composition.
I used the MB (55Nm) torque on mine as I didn't see the Victor-Reinz notation. No problems yet, but I haven't driven the car all that much (fingers crossed!)
I hope you either used new bolts or measured the length of the old ones to make sure they were still in spec. Also, the new bolts have a thick collar integrated into the bolt head and do not use washers like the old style. It doesn't look like you used washers but I state this for the benefit of others who might be doing a similar job for the first time.
Good Luck!

BTW, did you decide to use a gasket sealer/enhancer?

Yep, new bolts with the updated style. The old bolts were not stretched, that is why I also went with the 70nm because there was actually zero stretch whatsoever. I kept the old bolts for future use.
Did not use any gasket sealer....I got conflicting information so decided against it.

Most importantly...

Car is up and running! Everything so far so good...no leaks, but we'll find out in the next few months...Leaving the car to idle for 15-20mins before I take it for a drive. I'm gonna take it easy and drive carefully before I do my 400mi trip back home to Phoenix, AZ tomorrow morning.

As for the carbon, I am reading if I spray mists of water into the throttle body while holding the rpms at 2000 it should basically steam clean the tops of the pistons. Anybody had any experience with this? Does it actually work?
I'm gonna lean out the mixture a bit and check everything over. I also wonder if that arching on the rotor arm was contributing...?

__________________
2016 Monsoon Gray Audi Allroad - 21k
2008 Black Mercedes E350 4Matic Sport - 131k
2014 Jeep Wranger Unlimited Sahara - 62k
2003 Gray Mercedes ML350 - 122k

Any tips to share foe someone about to start this project? I really have appreciated what you have shared so far.

Water injection works fine. Hell a wet nitrous kit does too

__________________
I'm not a doctor, but I'll have a look.

'85 300SD 245k
'87 300SDL 251k
'90 300SEL 326k

Six others from BMW, GM, and Ford.

Liberty will not descend to a people; a people must raise themselves to liberty.[/IMG]

I did a full writeup here with more pics + info:
http://www.w124-zone.com/articles.php?article_id=36

A simple head gasket is really not difficult at all...No real 'tips' other than the chain guide pin method for removal.

__________________
2016 Monsoon Gray Audi Allroad - 21k
2008 Black Mercedes E350 4Matic Sport - 131k
2014 Jeep Wranger Unlimited Sahara - 62k
2003 Gray Mercedes ML350 - 122k

Great write up, thanks!