|
|
|
#1
|
|||
|
|||
PBU update 1987 300TD
I recently purchased a used PBU from a forum member. Has anyone switched there's with a new one? As you can see from the pictures the new one is different from the old one. I can not change the bottoms and that is where the 2 screws go that hold the unit in my car. Any help is much appreciated.
When I punch in the part number on the unit I bought (124 830 33 85), this is the picture that comes up. It looks like my new PBU is missing the upper section. Chris
__________________
1987 300TD 309, xxx 2.8.2014 10,000 mile OCI Be careful of the toes you step on today, as they may be connected to the ass you have to kiss tomorrow. anonymous “Be who you are and say what you feel, because those who mind don’t matter, and those who matter won’t mind.” Dr. Seuss Last edited by Bio300TDTdriver; 11-21-2010 at 10:42 PM. |
#2
|
||||
|
||||
PBU
Your problem is not the different bottom but rather the missing front. The PBU that you bought is supposed to have a snap-on black plastic front to make it look like your bad PBU. The two angled plastic brackets with screw holes are, in this design (the one you bought), part of the front, not the bottom.
Out of curiosity, can you determine the manufacturer of your bad PBU and the one you just bought? They should be either Bosch or Kammerer. The Bosch logo looks like a circle with an "H" in the middle while Kammerer units may be labeled "MK." Many PBUs with slight differences were made over the years that the W124 was in production. Both of the printed circuit boards in your pictures are slightly different from my spare PBU, which was the original in my '87 300D Turbo (W124, OM603). The one on the left in your pictures, which is (I think) the one you just bought, looks closer to mine than the other, and I think the red sticker says Bosch, doesn't it? Anyway, you need to contact your seller and find out what happened to the front piece, 'cause you should have received it with your purchase. It had to have been deliberately removed and not easily, because all of the pushbuttons must first be pried off. Jeremy
__________________
"Buster" in the '95 Our all-Diesel family 1996 E300D (W210) . .338,000 miles Wife's car 2005 E320 CDI . . 113,000 miles My car Santa Rosa population 176,762 (2022) Total. . . . . . . . . . . . 627,762 "Oh lord won't you buy me a Mercedes Benz." -- Janis Joplin, October 1, 1970 |
#3
|
|||
|
|||
Quote:
Thanks for the reply.
__________________
1987 300TD 309, xxx 2.8.2014 10,000 mile OCI Be careful of the toes you step on today, as they may be connected to the ass you have to kiss tomorrow. anonymous “Be who you are and say what you feel, because those who mind don’t matter, and those who matter won’t mind.” Dr. Seuss |
#4
|
||||
|
||||
It is written (in the 1986 "Introduction into service" manual) that a Bosch PBU shuts down completely when there is an overload (example: frozen aux coolant pump) while the Kammerer shuts down only the affected circuit. I have no personal experience, just what the book says.
__________________
"Buster" in the '95 Our all-Diesel family 1996 E300D (W210) . .338,000 miles Wife's car 2005 E320 CDI . . 113,000 miles My car Santa Rosa population 176,762 (2022) Total. . . . . . . . . . . . 627,762 "Oh lord won't you buy me a Mercedes Benz." -- Janis Joplin, October 1, 1970 |
#5
|
|||
|
|||
Quote:
__________________
1987 300TD 309, xxx 2.8.2014 10,000 mile OCI Be careful of the toes you step on today, as they may be connected to the ass you have to kiss tomorrow. anonymous “Be who you are and say what you feel, because those who mind don’t matter, and those who matter won’t mind.” Dr. Seuss |
#6
|
||||
|
||||
The one on the left appears to be a junkyard pull, I recognize that paint-pen mark. Was it tested?
Pulling the buttons without breaking the retainer is nearly impossible, at least I haven't been successful (about a 50% failure rate). Best of luck with that. Also, the '87s had a service bulletin on failures of solder-joints in the Bosch unit.
__________________
Gone to the dark side - Jeff |
#7
|
|||
|
|||
Quote:
Quote: Originally Posted by Bio300TDTdriver Transfering buttons and bulbs is not a problem. (Or so I thought) How did you test the unit? Chris Members response: "It was in my car for 3 months."
__________________
1987 300TD 309, xxx 2.8.2014 10,000 mile OCI Be careful of the toes you step on today, as they may be connected to the ass you have to kiss tomorrow. anonymous “Be who you are and say what you feel, because those who mind don’t matter, and those who matter won’t mind.” Dr. Seuss |
#8
|
||||
|
||||
The trick as I remember it, is to get the (white) inner part off without it cracking. If it cracks, the buttons will pop off (partially or entirely) when you select another button and the cracked one pops up. Be very careful, study the buttons well before starting.
__________________
Gone to the dark side - Jeff |
#9
|
||||
|
||||
This was a working pull from my car. I Used it 3 months, I thought the Faceplates came off all of them which was my mistake, most of my PBU's I've gotten from the local Pick n pull, I opted to put the original back in because I sort of liked the Celsius wheel, Anyways I hope the Faceplate will help..
__________________
hum..... 1987 300TD 311,000M Stolen. Presumed destroyed |
Bookmarks |
|
|