agreed. you will never never ever go back to halogens again

you folks *do* realize that the areas circled represent glare, don't you? posting
these examples, then labeling it as "no glare" doesn't change the fact that it is
quite the contrary.

given the intensity of HID light, the focus needs to be sharp and contained. the
beam cannot be allowed to diverge beyond a maximum critical angle of view.
these photos show the antithesis of a controlled beam.

http://oi52.tinypic.com/n5fx5j.jpg
http://oi54.tinypic.com/24luhjr.jpg

google and compare against OEM HID beam photos

You're correct Raymond, and the blurry cutoffs in these photos bother me also, but nobody is listening.

Then maybe the passenger headlight still needs some adjustment?

I had my friend drive head on and he said there was no glare...Also, the most important is the left side unless you are driving on the left hand side of the road.

Either way I'll adjust it lower. Once I get my kit for my 300TE and put it on, I'll take some more photos.

Saw it...but not sure if it will work with our model or not? Anybody want to guinea pig?

LoL, my fix was to remove the bulb out light!

that's what I did also, but I mean if there is a "real" fix, that would be cool :cool:

You might be able to get away with measuring the resistance of the standard bulb, and installing a resistor...

I was considering somehow fashioning it into a hood/engine light....I'll test it and see if that flags the system or not and go from there.

Too much glare. More glare than my dads sierra Denali with a ddm kit.

Makes my old retro on my last car look like sex.

I found a thread in DD I think about fixing the BOL issue. Involves disassembling the lighting relay and de-soldering two points that control the headlight bulb circuit. This leaves the BOL warning functional for the rest of your bulbs intact.

Can't find it ATM, but looking.

This is what the OEM Xenons in the W202 C43 AMG look like:

http://kropf.net/w202/headlamps/P1010290a.jpg


Appears to have the same amount of bleed... And those came factory equipped....

I would agree that with out a projector beam lens, the cut off is not going to be as defined as it could be.

That said, the Euro lights seem to do a much better job at controlling the light than the DOT versions. While it may not be as precise as convex lens setup, if they do not blind on coming traffic but still put out 5X more light for better vision, then the net gain is positive.

I will be wiring in a factory headlight leveling system. Depo euros have this capability too. Then the level can be optimized for all situations.

That sounds like the golden ticket.

I got my kit in, but I am having issues with one bulb going out after about ~20seconds. I can repeat it over and over...lights on....~20secs...passenger headlight goes out.

I contacted DDM waiting for a response. I tried different grounds, switched ballasts (to see if it would switch sides) and it didn't make a difference so may have a bad bulb. They emailed me saying I should switch the bulbs between each side, but I don't see how I can take the bulb out since there is a warranty void sticker, but maybe I am looking at the wrong way to remove it? Not sure....

Are you running the DDM HID harness?


Have you looked into capacitors?

This is the kit:

http://www.ddmtuning.com/Products/DDM-HID-Kit-Slim-Ballast-35W-or-55W

I didn't have any issues like this with my 260E....not sure why I'd need a capacitor, although this time I am wired directly to the battery instead of the blower motor fuse. That's the only difference.

They emailed me back (they are fast which is great, and coherent, not foreign idiots who can't understand or speak english) and gonna switch the bulbs today and see if it makes a difference.