Got to use my soldering paste today!! Man this makes soldering a complete breeze! No soldering iron....No mess. Easy. Wipe paste, use lighter until the paste sets on fire, blow it out and done! Then same deal with shrinkwrap, just use the lighter below it.

I'm struggling finding where I am exactly wiring this to though...Anybody know?

http://www.w124-zone.com/downloads/p...D/hid-cap1.jpg

I think I have the polarity the right way? Negative is the right side, right?

Hard to see in your pic, but the "-" arrow points to the right so I think you are good. I really hope this works

I am planning on doing this mod this coming weekend. Was your attempt successful? Any updates?

I am yet to figure out where I am putting the capacitor at...a little confused. :confused:

Placement in regards to wiring or where it will fit in the engine bay?

wiring placement...theres a lot of wires lol

Ha yes, very true.
From looking at the wiring diagrams from previous posts and reading DDMs site, I am planning to wire mine inline on the harness before the plug into the ballast.

Not sure if thats the part you were referencing but thats my understanding of how it should go. Since you already have the capacitor figured out, it should be straight fwd.

WOW, I ask one question and nine pages later and a huge to HID or not to HID battle I got no answer LOL there still in the garage anyway!

I want to double check before doing it with the whole exploding capacitor if it goes in backwards thing....

If I put it inline....power flows from harness to ballast?
so like this.....
[harness]-----(+)[cap](-)-----[plug]--[ballast]
Or should it be:
[harness]-----(-)[cap](+)-----[plug]--[ballast]

which way?

I'll do it tonight if I can get confirmation. I bought another cap just in case, but I don't want to make 2 mistakes. I wanna get it right the first time.

My understanding was that you would need one for each ballast, and that it would have to be inline between the harness and each one.

The diagram below shows essentially the same thing in terms of placement. Since there will be a capacitor for each ballast, it will look the same as your interpretation, just with a red (+) and black (-) wire going to the correct end of the capacitor and then to the plug.

Maybe think of it as laying the capacitor on top of the existing lines rather than severing the harness.

You have the capacitor wired correctly, so its just a matter of putting it inline between

-----(+) -----\
[harness] [cap] ------[plug]--[ballast]
-----(-)------/

I was able to find a picture of what I tried to convey in that last post. Hope this makes it clearer

That's what I needed :)

I'll do it probably tonight and report back.
Great photo find, thanks. I scoured all over the net trying to find one, but found none.

Update - I was able to get the capacitors soldered in last night in a similar fashion to the picture I posted before.

The first attempt at turning on the lights from a cold start (i.e. light had not yet been on that day) took two tries, which is down from the 4 to 5 it took before. I got gas which took about 10 minutes, after which they fired up on first try (which they usually did before).

So not 100% yet, but it is a marked improvement. I don't know how long it takes to charge the 4700 microfarad 35v capacitor I used, so after that initial firing I am hoping they will have gained the charge needed to fire on the first attempt every time.

I will post some more results after a few more days

There's nothing wrong with xenon headlamps, as long as they dont produce any glare at oncoming drivers. Not one of the pics of reflector housings in this thread has a set up with no glare.

If you want to see at night get deflutted lenses, and retrofit bixenons.

Update - still having the same issue with mine. The capacitors did not have the intended affect I was hoping for.

The DDM site lists resistors as a possible solution, but I haven't attempted that route yet as I think that has more to do with a modern system which does more than just give a bulb out warning.

I am considering a relay set up which theoretically should give the system enough power for the initial ignition (assuming thats what is lacking).

Will keep this thread updated along the way