Hello,

I would like some confirmation on part numbers for tie rod ends on a 93 190E.

I need to only replace my outer tie rod ends as the boots are cracked. The tie rods were replaced less than a year ago and I'm surprised the outside ends are already messed up.

Anyways, the EPC says this:



I need clarification which parts are the outside rod ends?

Is it part #68 the outside for both left and right tie rods?

Or is it #68 for left tie rod and #62 for the right tie rod?

Of course you never know if the last person installed the tie rods the same way that MB did.

The best thing to do is to look at the thread pitch & angle & decide whether the bad ones are RHT or LHT.

__________________
MERCEDES Benz Master Guild Technician (6 TIMES)
ASE Master Technician
Mercedes Benz Star Technician (2 times)
44 years foreign automotive repair
27 Years M.B. Shop foreman (dealer)
MB technical information Specialist (15 years)
190E 2.3 16V ITS SCCA race car (sold)
1986 190E 2.3 16V 2.5 (sold)
Retired Moderator

I had the same issue with a set of Bilstein tie rods -- less than one year, and the boots were completely dry-rotted and split. Needless to say, I was not impressed.

__________________
Jeff Pierce

Current Vehicles:
'92 Mercedes 190E/2.3 (247K miles/my daily driver)
'93 Volvo 940 Turbo Wagon (263K miles/a family truckster with spunk)
'99 Kawasaki Concours
Gravely 8120
Previous Vehicles:
'85 Jeep CJ-7 w/ Fisher plow (226K miles)'93 Volvo 940 Turbo Wagon
'53 Willys-Overland Pickup
'85 Honda 750F Interceptor
'93 Nissan Quest
'89 Toyota Camry Wagon
'89 Dodge Raider
'81 Honda CB 750F Super Sport
'88 Toyota Celica
'95 Toyota Tacoma
'74 Honda CB 550F

It is confusing and what you need may indeed depend on how they were installed the last time it was done (like MB Doc said). Best to take them off, or at least separate them and turn them a few times to verify RH or LH.
It also looks like there is a break in the application (two different outers & inners depending on chassis # ?).

When I did mine last, the whole tie rod assembly (inner & outer w/sleeve) was plenty cheap enough that it was easier just to replace the whole thing, and I didn't bother to pay attention to which way around I installed them since it didn't matter performance wise, and I knew if I had to do them again I'd just replace the whole assemblies again.
By replacing the whole thing it was very easy to match up an accurate length measurement from old to new while they were out. The car tracked perfectly when finished and in the long run (tire wear, etc) it turned out that I never needed to get it aligned.