Wow. Thank you for bringing this to my attention. I have never heard of this method, but sounds great.

I replaced an inner tie rod end on my MR2 last weekend and thought I kept the alignment as it was set, but it seems too twitchy, so I think I don't have enough toe-in. I will use your method to check it out.

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1983 300SD "Guderian"
1987 MR2
2015 Camry
2015 Chevy Spark
2006 Hyundai Tucson

Here's something you DIY's might want to read concerning alignment.

http://mercedes-diy-alignment.blogspot.com/

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1993 190E 2.3
2001 SLK230
1971 LS5 (454) Corvette Convertible

A quarter turn of the tire rod can almost be a full degree. So the slightest adjustment can make a big diff.

if you can no lock the steering wheel, then keep in mind any change (distance to string) is basically doubled. So if you check and you find that one wheel is not touching the string on the back outer side, dont adjust until it does touch. Adjust half way then play with the steering wheel to level it again then check. Otherwise you will end up with a steering wheel in a bad tilt.

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1991 560 SEL / 185k miles
1992 750il / 17k miles - project car

For simple toe adjustments yes this works. But camber is a whole nother story.

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http://i193.photobucket.com/albums/z...-RESIZED-1.jpg
1991 300E - 212K and rising fast...

Is the toe-in set keeping the wheel spreader factor in mind? I assume one has to set more toe- in to compensate for a lack of spreader assist.

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mark

And caster too!

I was surprised how much the front wheels move when you use a (DIY) spreader bar with the wheels on slip plates.

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1992 W201 190E 1.8 171,000 km - Daily driver
1981 W123 300D ~ 100,000 miles / 160,000 km - project car stripped to the bone
1965 Land Rover Series 2a Station Wagon CIS recovery therapy!
1961 Volvo PV544 Bare metal rat rod-ish thing

I'm here to chat about cars and to help others - I'm not here "to always be right" like an internet warrior



Don't leave that there - I'll take it to bits!