Shortcut Water Pump Replacement Tips? - Page 3 - PeachParts Mercedes-Benz Forum

EricSilver · #31 03-16-2011, 08:57 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by long-gone

While I'm thinking of it, assuming a pin is in the way, and you remove it to facilitate putting the cover on, how do you put it back in once the cover is on?

From what I have read, it passes through the cover and acts as a third guide.

When it is removed, you can apparently position the cover directly above the new seal before moving it down and forward to align it with the guide tubes(?) and secure it back in place. With the pin in place, however, you apparently have to position the cover in perfect alignment with it and the guide tubes, farther out and flush against the lower cover before sliding it forward -- which is when the rolling of the new seal occurs.

Using a plastic (or razor-thin metal) sheet as previously described, that should resolve the issue. And I would use KY Jelly or Astroglide on the top of the seal and the plastic sheet to lubricate them, with no residue afterwards.

sptt · #32 03-16-2011, 09:43 AM

http://w124-zone.com/viewpage.php?page_id=6

Eric,

Here is the link to the process for that removal. If it doesn't work, just register at the site first and go to factory manual and pick the M104 engine. 0-2120 Front Timing Cover

It looks much more involved than the 103.

Steve

EricSilver · #33 03-16-2011, 10:19 AM

I was using this as a reference:

http://www.peachparts.com/shopforum/showthread.php?t=147315

Excerpts from post#1, paragraph 4 below. Sounds like removing valve cover is optional. It also mentioned the pin. Comments of interest are in bold:

Front cover:
I’m really a pro at getting this off and on quickly. It’s VERY simple, and you don’t need to remove the serpentine belt. I always do in this order.

First, loosen the fan shroud. Then, drain the coolant at the crossover pipe connection just above the AIR pump. Then, pull the switchover valve (two 13mm bolts), and move the electrical connections to the side. Also the connection to the AIR pump.

I then remove the black engine lift hook (two long hex bolts) right next to the switchover valve (these are the items hidden behind the black cover (front of the engine), and pull the engine lift hook. You can then remove the large coolant hose in the front. Two hose clamps. From there, it’s very simple to remove the coolant crossover pipe – single hex bolt holding to the block, and the small bolt holding it to the thermostat housing.

With the pipe out of the way, pulling the fan is simple. I use a piece of angled steel rod – bent for this need – I think it’s ¼” that I can slide in to the groove behind the cooling fan pulley. With this in place (the rod), with the other hand, put an allen wrench into the hex bolt on the cooling fan. Turn clockwise until the rod “locks” down the fan pulley. Then loosen the cooling fan pulley by loosening the bolt counter clockwise.

With the fan out of the way, I would suggest removing the valve cover. I won’t explain that process – it’s an easy task.

With the valve cover off, you can pull the timing cover. There are six bolts that hold it in place – you won’t be able to remove the lower bolt on the passenger side – just unthread it and leave it loose. Also, remove the bolt holding the belt tensioner “shock” absorber. The upper timing cover will now come off. Careful – I use a flathead screwdriver on the passenger side first, then on the drivers side. There are a couple pry points. Don’t try and pry anywhere else. A rubber mallet may also do the trick.

Once off, I remove the “pin” attaching the timing chain rail on the driver’s side. I use a long bolt / washer and a socket. Tighten down the bolt into the threaded pin, and as it gets tight, I turn clockwise with a ratchet on the bolt, and with the other hand, pulling outward toward me with the socket. This will ease out the pin.

I recommend putting a clean rag between where the timing chain drops/hangs nto the block. You don’t want to drop any nuts/bolts/tools/dirt down here!"