Steve, just noticed, if the start is authorized the result is no fuel injection. The pump might still run, but the injectors don't squirt.

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Gilly, thank for your expertise!
You are correct about the ring around the igntion switch. Mine is an 06/96. The 97 models have the sensors.
Now, you hit on something.
I have the driveside door that will not lock or unlock, thought it was the actuator, but now think it could be something else. Any ideas?
I had trouble with the car again yesterday, but I tried putting the key in, and I know this will sound silly, so as to scrape the top and over right side of the ignition entrance as I insert it. Low and behold, it started! Tried it again and it continues to work!
Now my question is, since this is an electronic switch, could it be the ignition connections inside the switch?
I also can, on rare occasions, get my dash to come up and work if I turn the key in right manner. This seems to be related to the ignition as well.
I have found ignition switches on Ebay, don't know what they are, exactly, but would a replacement of the 7 pin switch be a possible solution?http://cgi.ebay.com/Mercedes-Benz-Ignition-Switch-240D-280CE-280E-300D-300E-/170463511640?pt=Motors_Car_Truck_Parts_Accessories&fits=Model%3AC280&hash=item27b06ac458
Your assistance is greatly appreciated!
Steve Dale

Steve, I don't think that's the right style switch. It could be suspect, if it is the style I think it is, I've posted to several people aout the suspicion I always have of this style switch.
My immediate reaction is that there is I believe an electrical switch in by the door lock which I would also be suspicious of, especially if you have a problem with the drivers door lock anyways. This switch is what would signal the DAS to let the car start.

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So, Gully, what is this sensor in the door? Can it be replaced?
My mechanic is quite sufficient if I can get the right part. I will also check with the Benz house to see about the ignition switch and what is in the door. Can u tell me what a DAS is?
Thank u for Ur diligence in this matter. I truly love this car and other then this issue it is in wonderful condirion. I have taken great care with this car and want to continue to drive it. Your assistance is so appreciated.
Steve Dale

Sorry, Gilly. Stupid phone.
I also need to add that the door will lock and unlock via the trunk, so the actuator appears to be working. Let me know if their is an electronic sensor or something of that nature inside the door.
Thanks again
Steve Dale

Steve
IIRC it isn't a sensor so much as a switch, and also IIRC it is on the side of the door lock cylinder, inside the door. The fact that the drivers door lock isn't working and you have this no-start problem could all be related. I believe the switch is available as a seperate item. Again it might be worth it to get it all working, I don't think the key costs all that much on this car, I'm sure you'd love having a remote again! To work on just the outer handle and lock cylinder I don't think the inner door panel even needs to come off! But to get it locking and unlocking again from that door (using the key) probably will, I think it's just a metal rod, may have become disconnected, this happens some times, say if someone uses a slimjim to get in the car (like for example the keys get locked inside).
DAS is Driver Authorization System, in other words in the antiotheft system, which is keeping the car from starting. It is not a single component, it's just the nomenclature MB uses for the antitheft system. DAS2 is the "type" of DAS you have, there are/were various versions of it, DAS1, 2 and 3 and another one called DASX, I am sure it is all different today. They mainly change the systems to keep the crooks on their toes.

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Gilly, I was hoping you would think this might resolve my situation.
I am starting to get very frustrated with this. I have searched three forums and found every thread and read every post, it seems that no one knows what to do about this. Is this true?!
I have read about changing out ECU, other components and nothing seemed to resolve this matter.
I really want to find the answer, not just for me but for all the others that are or have had this issue.
I read a thread on the door lock for this car on this forum. Mentioned pelling back the rubber seal to reveal the lock and finding some pin the had come out.
I will have my mechanic do this repair and see if it remedies the problem.
You are right, I would love to have this lock working again, then get a new key.
Other then this no-start issue, my car is in great shape, in and out. I just want it to operate without the fear of not starting.
I will get the repair done nxt wk., too late to get it to him and have it done this wk. I will let you know the outcome.
If there is anything else you think of that might be a factor, please pass it on and I will attempt to have it done.
Thank you so much for your information and help!
Steve Dale
Lubbock, Tx

Steve, it sort of makes sense, at least because of the red and green blinking lights in the mirror, that means that DAS says "no authorization" so that explains the crank but no start. IF the mechanic can read the codes in DAS it might even say that it is due to a problem with the drivers door lock. The mechanic might not be able to read DAS codes as MB is very fussy about letting out security info to the code reader companies.

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He can't read those codes, at least I don't believe he can. Nevertheless, we will have the door lock work done nxt wk. I will get the car to him today, somehow.
I found the thread on the repair. Looks ominous, but I trust his abilities. He has been taking care of my Benz's for years. He will get the job done and I will let you know the outcome.
Have a marvelous Father's Day!
Steve Dale
Sportsline

Well good morning! And a good one it is!
Last week my mechanic took it upon himself to get a new OVP.
Well, the car started and has started ever since!
Now, I had replaced this item about 3 years ago with the new number.
I take it that this has something to do with the fuel supply or electronic release of the security system.
What all does the OVP have charge over?
Nonetheless, the car has been running great. Had the lower control arm bushings replaced and the ride is back also.
The door lock still wont work, but that's a problem for another day. Perhaps when I order my new key in August. On vacation for July,will worry about that then.
Thanks for your diligence and knowledge. I could never have remedied this without your assistance.
Steve Dale
Sportsline

Sounds good, just hope it continues to work for you.
The thing is, is I didn't think the 96 202 even has an OVP, I thought it had the "next" thing that does the OVP job, which is the K40 relay.
At any rate the OVP protects the control modules from over voltage (Over Voltage Protection relay), in case like a jump start, or even from reverse polarity. The OVP on the older CIS cars could cause poor running or various systems to stop functioning like ABS.
I am still skeptical of the whole repair as the red/green lights were alternating which was obviously why the car was not starting. So I think you are heading in to a time period where it will work for you, but more to come later. Probably all linked to DAS and the drivers door lock not working. So sorry to rain on your parade, just calling it as i see it.

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Thanks, Gilly. I will repair the doorlock when I get back from vacation. Will be gone for July, will get it done as soon as I get back. Early August, should be the timeline and will keep you informed as to the result.
All I know is my car is running now and that's all I was asking for.
Other then the doorlock, the C280 is in wonderful condition. Just a bit worse for having 216,000 miles on it, LOL.
Thank for your help and I will let you know the result of the doorlock repair when I return in August.
Steve Dale
Sportsline

Sounds good Steve, hey I may be all wet on this too. It just seems like the problem has already been known to "fix itself" for quite a while, then reappear. Maybe it really IS fixed this time, but if it reappears, then I would look further in to the DAS system and the drivers door lock not functioning.
I would really like to think that having the remote working would be enough in and of itself to at least get the new key, I think most of us are spoiled by the new cars with their remote unlock systems. I know I restored an 84 BMW 325E a few years ago without of course remote unlocking and remember thinking "OH I have to unlock the car with the KEY, how quaint!"

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I defintely will get the doorlock done and a new key. You're right about the keyless entry. My wife's E class has it and I love how easy it is. Since mine has it, might as well use it.
Talk to you in August when I get the work done.
Thanks again.
Steve Dale
Sportsline