I would like to confirm info from a earlier post ( I don't remember when, it was an archived message)

Our '94 E320 wagon exhibited these noises from the front end when traveling over uneven road surfaces, hitting minor bumps, and sometime for no apparent reason. annoying but not alarming. Car has 76,000 miles, and these noises just made it sound sad and old before its time.

After mechanic replaced ball joints, center link, idler arm, and pronounced the control arm bushings within spec, he essentially gave up for the moment. (All these items he replaced for free, as we had just bought the car from him recently) Not wanting to push too much on this issue, I decided to pursue it myself, as I was bored last weekend and had some free time.

Lo and behold, replaced all 4 swaybar bushings at $32 from the dealer. ALL front end clunking and banging gone, just like that. The transformation was astounding.

So, FYI, check here first, you might be surprised.

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1995 MB E320 Wagon
2001 BMW 530i
2007 MINI Cooper S (!)

You're absolutely right. Learned about that on the Easley list a few years back when mine started to "clunk" over potholes. Dealer wanted $1200 to replace the front shock bearings or some such, and a long-time independent couldn't find the source, though it's a VERY common problem in W124s.

Replaced my front sway bar bushings and all's well.

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Steve
'93 400E

Just curious, but how tough a job is this? Mine certainly could use replacement after 207,000 miles; don't think they've ever been replaced.

Any special tools needed?

TIA

~Paul

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'91 300E, 207k miles

Unscrew/screw a few bolts. You are done. Less than 1 hour for a DIY'er.

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J.H.
'86 300E

Thanks J.H.

Looks like I have something to do now this weekend. :p

~Paul


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'91 300E, 207k miles

Is this a similar scope of effort on a 1986 190E 2.3-16 and a W123 240D? Both cars will clunk on occasion down our unpaved driveway, and over some bumps at certain speeds. Not always there on the road, but it is on the lumps and dips on the driveway. Thanks, Jim

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Own:
1986 Euro 190E 2.3-16 (291,000 miles),
1998 E300D TurboDiesel, 231,000 miles -purchased with 45,000,
1988 300E 5-speed 252,000 miles,
1983 240D 4-speed, purchased w/136,000, now with 222,000 miles.
2009 ML320CDI Bluetec, 89,000 miles

Owned:
1971 220D (250,000 miles plus, sold to father-in-law),
1975 240D (245,000 miles - died of body rot),
1991 350SD (176,560 miles, weakest Benz I have owned),
1999 C230 Sport (45,400 miles),
1982 240D (321,000 miles, put to sleep)

Jim,
I don't know for sure about the 190's, but I would bet that it would be similar, since MB seems to use the same ideas throughout the range (e.g., I think they all have a 5-point rear suspension). It'd be easy to tell just by looking under the front end to see if there is a sway bar going across the front end.

From what I've heard, and my own experience, it's usually the front ones that go bad (and they're the easiest to replace). They tend to wear out after 75-100 k miles.

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Steve
'93 400E

I just did the job on my 1990 300TE wagon this weekend and it makes a marked difference. For very little extra (~$30), replace the sway bar brackets (particularly in pre-89/90 300Es, but I'd do it on all) that hang down from the unibody and also the straps that hold the bushings in place. Also, make sure that you clean your swaybar thoroughly, spray it with lubricant, and the old bushings (particularly the mounting ones) will come off easily. Make sure that the new bushings are lubed on the inside, too, for installation and on-going use.

On the previous lister's question on the 123 chassis, your noise problem is likely brake support joints. Look at the rod that goes from the lower control arm to the body and you'll see them tucked in there. They are the most likely source for front end "clunking" on a 123.

Richard Easley
Waco, Texas

My 1977 240D has these similar "noises" !! It is approaching 460,000 miles (original owner) ! The sway bar bushings have never been replaced. Does this "fix" apply to the 123 body and do you do the front and the rear (even though the "banging suspension noise" seems to come only from the front suspension ??) Thanks.... Lovedabch; in Virginia Beach

Sway bar bushings will cause thumping on rough roads or when only one wheel hits a bump. If only really bad on one side, only that side will thump.

Track rod bushings on the W123 chassis will groan over large bumps at low speed (speed bumps) as well as thump. They will also make clunking noises when going from reverse to drive with the brakes on.

Sway bar bushings are easy on the W123 and later models. W115 and earlier can be a problem due to limited space and/or VERY tight clamping straps.

Next month I'm gonna do the sway bar bushings on both W124 cars (just did the evaporator on the TE and I'm out of cash).

Peter

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1972 220D ?? miles
1988 300E 200,012
1987 300D Turbo killed 9/25/07, 275,000 miles
1985 Volvo 740 GLE Turobodiesel 218,000
1972 280 SE 4.5 165, 000 - It runs!

Is is just as easy for a 126? Lots of clunking, and receipts show a lot of front end work done. I thought something was loose in the engine compartment but maybe it is the sway bar bushings. Will check it out.

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'84 300SD
'02 New Beetle TDI

Just went out to the W124-95. Had the wife push the corner of the car up and down and darned if the sway bar bushings at the hub didn't move a 1/4". Strange in that with the car up on jacks I could push/pull and nothing moves.

I'll replace this week and see if any difference in the long run.

A secondary question, does the sway bar have any impact on stability at highway speeds (the old unstable wind gusts at 60mph.)

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1995 E320 -171k-km
1995 S420 -333k-km

Also check the front shock upper mounts. The 190e had a terrible clunk-a-clunk most pronounced on cornering on rough roads. I check the shock mounts on from above looked OK, but when removed, were torn quite a bit.

The difference was great.

Haasman

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'03 E320 Wagon-Sold
'95 E320 Wagon-Went to Ex
'93 190E 2.6-Wrecked
'91 300E-Went to Ex
'65 911 Coupe (#302580)

Great to find this post. Can anyone give a tip or two as to the procedure?

Is it best to use Jack Stands or ramps?

Part Numbers for the bushings?

Anything else that was particulary challenging about the job?

Did you notice marked improvement after repair?

Thanks a bazillion! Go Mavs!

Dave

I did my 124 just lying on the ground. Ramps or jacks would improve access a bit. Check eBay for 124 sway bar bushings, mine cost IIRC $14 plus shipping and came with new nuts & bolts. Afterwards, the car handled better, went faster, the AC blew colder and it got better gas mileage. Just like washing it.

Easy job.

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Norm in NJ
Next oil change at 230,000miles