Howdy gents,

So I was going through my service records today to check out when the last time my shock absorbers had been changed, and if my accumulators have been exchanged at all. Turns out EXACTLY 100,002 miles ago, my absorbers were changed, a quick looks showed Bilsteins, but no clue which type; I have to clean off the sticker tomorrow. Accumulators have not been done, and I suspect them to be shot.

Whats a good test for the accumulators? My ride isn't that bad; it doesn't hold a candle to an E38 or a W210, but it's not intolerable. Anyone whos driven in CT on I-95 will know that the road is awful, and each bump, the back takes a hit worse than the front, and if I go over a bump, she bounces maybe two or three times at about 2500 RPM. Also, my car is perfectly level with the ground, and the SLS 'works' when me and some luggage sit in the trunk.

Both are easy jobs, So I figure while I'm doing the brakes I may as well exchange the shocks and accumulators too.

So, which type of shocks should I get? I like the ride in the E38 over the W210, which seems too separated from the road for my liking. But I hate feeling too much shock from bumps, and CT roads are the worst. I was thinking based on the reviews, I'm stuck behind Bilstein HDs and whatever equivalent of comforts there are today. I just want the car to handle with a purpose; as little body roll stock springs can offer I guess.

Also, accumulators; easy to test; pretty sure they're blown anyways. Corteco the OEM manufacture? Or should I just go to the dealer to get them direct? Last I checked, Corteco was ~$102 a side.

LASTLY, which pads should I get? My wheels are eaaaasy to clean, so dust isn't an issue. SOUND is. I despise squeal or crunchy sounding brakes.

Thanks loads,

Carlen

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1987 560SEL (210,000 miles)

Spheres

The 2 or 3 bounces tell me that indeed the spheres are leaking slowly through the diaphragm. The test is to crack open the small 6mm pipe at a union and see if you get creamy looking aerated hydraulic oil. Each side could be different.

Brakes

AKEBONO INTRODUCES EURO™ BRAKE PADS FEATURING ADVANCED CERAMIC TECHNOLOGY have been recommended to me.

http://www.akebonobrakes.com/company/media_center/white_papers/index.html

Sachs/Boge shocks are "softer" than Bilstein HD's!

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MERCEDES Benz Master Guild Technician (6 TIMES)
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190E 2.3 16V ITS SCCA race car (sold)
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Retired Moderator

I dig soft suspension feel, but how are they 'performance' wise? Evasive maneuvers are a daily occurrence on these roads, which also snake around like a backroad more than an interstate, and I'd prefer it to roll as little as possible while having my kidneys intact at the end of the day.

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1987 560SEL (210,000 miles)

Snake, recommend Bilstein Comfort struts. Last year I installed Bilstein HD struts on our 1995 E320 and the ride was too harsh. Replaced them with Bilstein Comfort struts within a few days. New Comfort struts and new accumulators will dramatically improve the ride/handling of your 560SEL.

From what I've read ceramic brake pads provide reduced braking effectiveness in cold weather, until the pads warm up. For that reason I would never use them personally, but to each his own.

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Fred Hoelzle

Ferdman,

I think I'll be picking up a set of the Bilstein Comforts as well. I looked at the Boge Sachs, but I can't justify the price for the roads I traverse daily.

And as to the pads, I've gotten raving reviews about the Akebono ceramics, but I'll be looking into the cold weather effectiveness. I certainly don't tailgate, but you never know what could happen... Especially with winter coming around, I wouldn't want to get them if the effectiveness is that noticeable.

Thanks,

Carlen

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1987 560SEL (210,000 miles)

Good thread. I am in the exact same boat. But I still have factory (I think) front absorbers. Back behaves the exact same way and I too think my spheres are shot. Please keep thread updated. I would like to know what you finally go with and what the ride is like!

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1991 560 SEL / 185k miles
1992 750il / 17k miles - project car

I actually just got back from the dealer! 160 a side for the accumulators. I would have gotten the aftermarkets but Jono advised against Corteco for this job if you dont want to do it again. Those were 110, so not a lot pf savings but enough to get some other goodies for the car. Get em Monday and look forward to the improvement!

Also, sunroof guides are now 456 f@%$ing dollars. A side. If anyone can get me those and the drip rail from a Gen II with tilt, most egregious of you. Or the whole cartridge...

-Carlen

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1987 560SEL (210,000 miles)

By guides you mean the lifting arms? Geeze they were like $90 a side when I redid mine in 2009.

-J

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1991 350SDL. 230,000 miles (new motor @ 150,000). Blown head gasket

Tesla Model 3. 205,000 miles. Been to 48 states!
Past: A fleet of VW TDIs.... including a V10,a Dieselgate Passat, and 2 ECOdiesels.
2014 Cadillac ELR
2013 Fiat 500E.

Yep, those black arms that snap like a twig. They were 120 a year ago, 160 in November. Now, wayyy too rich for my blood. Theres a euro car parter in Waterbury so Im going to pay them a visit. I cant justify those prices on a superbly maintained, but still 230,000 mile 24 year old car.

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1987 560SEL (210,000 miles)

Damn! I'm glad I replaced mine when I did!

Alright, I picked them up yesterday, as well as the required 2.1 quarts of hydraulic fluid (Additional 45 bucks after discount ), then went out and bought the proper flare wrenches for the job. I just bought a set of metric Craftsmans so I wouldn't have to keep using my dad's; 18-9mm was 40 bucks. The job calls for 11mm.

From what I've gathered, this is the procedure I'm following:

-Jack the rear of the car, safety first with jack stands.
-Move level controller lever to 'empty' (downward), open bleed screw.
-Start car, and let it all pour out into oil change pan.
-Stop car, remove filler line (hard) from BOTH sides, then remove each. Obviously high pressure lines, so safety first with safety goggles and rags.
-As the manual likes to state: Remove, Replace.
-Top up the fluid to the max mark in the reservoir, and start the car.
-Rev to 3500 and let the system bleed.
-Enjoy another long period of smooth sailing in your 560.

One last question before I dive in; is it advantageous to change out the bump stops at the top of the rear shocks when they are depressurized? They're only held in by what, 2 top bolts, and accessible via rear seat?

I read that was another cause of the ride issues, so I want to cut to the chase here and get it done right the first time.


-Carlen

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1987 560SEL (210,000 miles)

Alright,

While some things I've read say to remove the wheels, I managed without doing so, but I have really long arms and pretty damn good dexterity. I don't see wheel removal making it that much easier, personally.

First thing I did was remove a quart of fluid from the reservoir. bought a $10 transfer hand pump at Richlin hardware.

Cracked the hard lines on both sides (by the way, probably the grossest fluid that has ever managed to make it's way onto my skin ), and foamy viscous fluid came out. Looked like peanut butter sauce, but with the consistency of baby oil. And it reeked. A little less than a quart expunged from the hard and soft lines being removed.

Soft line to shock required a 15 or 17mm flare wrench.
Bolts holding accumulators to the body were 12 or 13mm.
Hard line to accumulator was 11mm flare.

Now the reason I'm posting... If you're doing this job, buy the fitting from the accumulator to the soft line. The old ones, if your accumulators are as old as mine (24), are prob sealed to the old accumulator, and being made of brass or some other soft metal, will strip and cut when trying to take em off.

Otherwise, complete removal was only 1.5 hours. I foresee install to be even faster.

-Carlen.

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1987 560SEL (210,000 miles)

Hi Snake,

Thanks for posting this info. Do you happen to know if the procedure would be the same for the 126 coupe? I have an '86 560 SEC and I think I will have the same nasty goo that you were experiencing, but I just got the car and have been doing timing chain etc. and I have never even looked at the rear end...

Thanks, John

Saaaaame exact procedure. There's a bleeder screw on the leveling valve (attaches by a lever to the middle of the rear sway bar) that will make that goo not spray all over you, but I neglected to use it before hand. Just have a big pan or bucket to drop it into since if you dont empty the reservoir prior, 2 quarts will be in the system!

Let me stress by all means, get the fittings I mentioned in the prior post beforehand; better safe than sorry like I still am waiting for them to get here

Good luck,

Carlen

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1987 560SEL (210,000 miles)